View Full Version : Mariner 40 deck and cabin replacement
mariner 40
11-18-2005, 11:51 PM
Hello
I have read articals here where it was suggested to use a softwood inner layer, plywood, glass, then teak. Is there anywhere I might find detailed instruction on this process? Thanks
gonzo
11-20-2005, 09:41 PM
What are you building?
mariner 40
11-20-2005, 10:17 PM
Sorry, my wife has been reading my mind for so many years, I though everybody would know also. I am replacing the deck and cabin on a mariner 40 ketch.
FAST FRED
11-25-2005, 06:50 AM
To remove the declk to get out the rotten plywood in not necessary.
With a new deck the stink of the rotten wood will eventually go away.
Strip off all the deck fittings and pull the teak deck & dispose of it.
Get a 1220V-10A or larger grinder , a Bher Manning flat foam pad and VERY coarse paper used by the floor refinishing industry.
This comes in rolls or sheets and should be cut or snapped into squares.(the corners keep you from digging in and creating unfairnesses.
NAPA has a removable rubber cement known as DISC ADHEASIVE
Use this combo to completly sand clean a section of dead deck.
Notch Trowel filled epoxy onto the deck and with weights or a vacume cleaner pull a foam or cleegcell type sandwich material to the deck.
When all covered with foam , simply glass the top with polly resin to about 1/4 or 3/8 at the anchor handling area.
No skid of your choice and you have a deck thats insulated 4X as stiff , and wont suffer from not rebeding deck fittings often enough .
Works for me,, but it IS messy & labor intensive.
FAST FRED
gonzo
11-25-2005, 06:22 PM
A sure way of doing it right, is to copy the old construction. It lasted for quite a while. There are some materials, like epoxies and sealants that can be combined for even more durability.
mariner 40
12-01-2005, 08:11 PM
Hello
Some of the floor and deck stringers need replaced on my Mariner 40. I live in Kentucky. What would be the best wood to use to replace the stringers, and then what is most practical? Thanks for any help on this.
glassman
12-01-2005, 10:24 PM
putting a new deck over the old, not the way the wet and roted wood will dry but also go to dust ,and if it had teak sole save it tossing it like Fast Fred said that a wast of dollers and good wood . Gonzo is right and with epoxy and new materials on the market it will last
Look at sasafrass and ash. You can use yellow cypress also.
mariner 40
12-07-2005, 09:21 PM
Hello
The original deck and cabin plywood is 1". Would it hurt to use 3/4" instead?
gonzo
12-08-2005, 01:19 AM
It would be about half as stiff. You could laminate two 1/2" with the seams staggered.
FAST FRED
12-08-2005, 06:21 AM
"The original deck and cabin plywood is 1"."
What caused the rot is the lack of maint to every penitration that goes thru the GRP into the ply.
AS hidden screws are impossable to routenly service , a copy if the old deck will leave at about the same speed.
Newer sealants are better than decades old stuff , but die as well a year or two later.
YOU have to decide if you can accept the short service life of glass over ply.
The cost of doing it "better" is quite low , just different skill sets.
FAST FRED
gonzo
12-08-2005, 09:20 AM
Sealants last decades. Lifecaulk, for example, is still pliable and adhered to wood and metal after 30+ years.
Fast Fred: where do you get you data from?
mariner 40
12-08-2005, 10:30 AM
Thanks for the info. Fast Fred, what would be a better fix? I am not in a good area of the country for sailboat repair experience. The carpenters here that I have talked to wants to use area woods for repiar. I don't want to be in a storm on my top and wished I had done something else! Once I have determined the method of repiar. I will get a carpenter to make repiars.
FAST FRED
12-10-2005, 06:17 AM
I will get a carpenter to make repiars.
Get a book on construction from Airex and from the other cheaper folks like www.nadia-core.com.
You will need someone familiar with fiberglassing , rather than a carpenter.
AS sugested a relartivly simple solution for a starting glasser =
Strip off all the deck fittings and pull the teak deck & dispose of it.
Get a 1220V-10A or larger grinder , a Bher Manning flat foam pad and VERY coarse paper used by the floor refinishing industry.
This comes in rolls or sheets and should be cut or snapped into squares.(the corners keep you from digging in and creating unfairnesses.
NAPA has a removable rubber cement known as DISC ADHEASIVE
Use this combo to completly sand clean a section of dead deck.
Notch Trowel filled epoxy onto the deck and with weights or a vacume cleaner pull a foam or cleegcell type sandwich material to the deck.
When all covered with foam , simply glass the top with polly resin to about 1/4 or 3/8 at the anchor handling area.
No skid of your choice and you have a deck thats insulated 4X as stiff , and wont suffer from not rebeding deck fittings often enough .
Works for me,, but it IS messy & labor intensive.
FAST FRED
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