cualking

[holeinthewater]

hi everyone,this is my first attempt at any sort of timber boat restoration,so please excuse my lack of knowledge.i have recently purchased a 27ft carvel cruiser,the hull was previously sheathed with dynel/epoxy which has now been removed,i don't really want to resheath the hull unless it's absolutely necessary.i haven't found any rot in the hull yet only some worm holes,all timber feels hard when poked with a screw driver but the gaps between some planks are around 1-2mm,how much can they be expected to close when the timber expants?should i sit the boat in some shallow water & let things expand?what is an acceptable gap between the planks?

[gonzo]

It depends on the type of construction and wood species. Also, if it had Dynel and epoxy the wood at the seams may be crushed because the resin is hard. It won't swell and seal if so. I think you need an in-site survey or inspection by someone knowledgeable.

[dr.j]

Was the boat built with the intention that it be sheathed or was it an after construction initiative? If it was a post-construction effort, then you might want to ensure that the hull is in the condition that it does not need to be resheathed. 1-2m.m. is not that much of a problem if the boat is dried out. Ensure that the planking and fastenings are in good shape and that the seams are reefed and cleaned out properly before recaulking. If there is damage to the seams (plank edges) then you must address that before doing anything. I would also check the faying surface between the hull and frames before recaulking, otherwise you could merely force the planking apart and away from the frames. As concerns the worm damage, as long as it is in areas that are not structurally sensitive, then I would simply crop out the bad areas and install a graving piece. As has been suggested, ensure that you have a qualified professional check it out if you are at all unsure of yourself.