Timbard
03-04-2005, 06:58 AM
Technique maybe of Interest - fast/solid
We have a 15 meter cedar strip tradtional gentlemens launch under design/construction and in discussing the options of strip forms with our designer of 60 years experience I queried what form the strips would take. Looking through the literature it seems the cove and half round and some form of modified tongue and groove were options, although I have built a canoe years ago out of butted rectangualar redwood strips. He said for a boat this size we will use 25X50 mm retangular strips. "that cove they cut and the bull nose that matches, all that wood you paid for they made into sawdust". So the tecnique is to use 3-inch long hot melt glue coated staples (about paperclip size wire). Starting at the bow fasten the first strip to the stem with a pneumatic gun and continue around to the bow on the other side fastening the the strips with grain parrallel staples to the bulkheads (the staples will pretty much bury themsleves in the wood and be almost invisible under even the clear cloth/resin. Then using a simple spacer (about 1 mm thick) start back around the hull stapling every foot (completely through the new board and into the one below) or so and into each bulkhead. Slide the spacer along to control the space between boards. When you get to the stem reverse hands and start back around. From experience of others it turns out that alternating hands and a bit of thinking will prevent stapling on top of staple. The hot melt glue melts on insertion due to friction, and the staples cannot be removed, but it also fixes the spacing since the glue is in both boards. When it come to fiberglasseing the resin will go into each slot and totally encapulate each strip. From experience one man can strip about one foot of hull per day on the 35 foot sail boat.
We have a 15 meter cedar strip tradtional gentlemens launch under design/construction and in discussing the options of strip forms with our designer of 60 years experience I queried what form the strips would take. Looking through the literature it seems the cove and half round and some form of modified tongue and groove were options, although I have built a canoe years ago out of butted rectangualar redwood strips. He said for a boat this size we will use 25X50 mm retangular strips. "that cove they cut and the bull nose that matches, all that wood you paid for they made into sawdust". So the tecnique is to use 3-inch long hot melt glue coated staples (about paperclip size wire). Starting at the bow fasten the first strip to the stem with a pneumatic gun and continue around to the bow on the other side fastening the the strips with grain parrallel staples to the bulkheads (the staples will pretty much bury themsleves in the wood and be almost invisible under even the clear cloth/resin. Then using a simple spacer (about 1 mm thick) start back around the hull stapling every foot (completely through the new board and into the one below) or so and into each bulkhead. Slide the spacer along to control the space between boards. When you get to the stem reverse hands and start back around. From experience of others it turns out that alternating hands and a bit of thinking will prevent stapling on top of staple. The hot melt glue melts on insertion due to friction, and the staples cannot be removed, but it also fixes the spacing since the glue is in both boards. When it come to fiberglasseing the resin will go into each slot and totally encapulate each strip. From experience one man can strip about one foot of hull per day on the 35 foot sail boat.