Hardtop

[gcw]

I have a 1986 25' Sea Ox walk around cuddy that I would like to build a hardtop for has anyone done this or any ideas where I could get plans to build one

[gshabanov]

I am Also trying to build an enclosed fiberglass hardtop for my 1981 Tiara Pursuit Walkaround 21 feet.
If you find any information. Please let me know!
:confused:

[Dallas B]

Iam trying to build a top also...what a pain

[Pilot]

We have a mold to build a hard top for our 25 foot walkaround. Email me if you have any interest.

[kapnD]

I built my hardtop of fiberglass, using vinyl-surfaced particle board (mellamine) as a one off mold. The finish is a little rough, but I found it more practical to do a little sanding and painting on the piece itself than to put that effort into building a perfect mold for just one time use. Its also possible to keep the weight low, as no core is necessary.

[nassaw]

I believe Kapn D is right. I use a mold table to build many components of a boat. I actually had a table 50' x 8' to produced super structure hull panels. The table is simple. A few 2xs screwed together to support a sheet 4'x8'x3/4" mellamine covered chipboard. Need a longer table. Add another sheet and seal and tape the joint with parcel tape. The biggest trick is edge treament. rebate or radius molds can be added fo connections or edges. If Anyone is interested on how this works. I can throw a quick page together.

[gshabanov]

Yes that would be awesome if there was a refrence guide. :idea: :D

[David Cowen]

Hi Guys,
This link was passed to me by a long time meber of this forum http://www.classicmako.com/projects.htm. There are numerous ideas here and this may help. It certainly has given me a lot of ideas,
Cheers. :idea:

[nassaw]

I started a page to describe the mold table process. Keep in mind the only difference between a small panel and a large one is the set up time. The process stays the same. I'll try to finish the text by the weekend. This is also called foam core composite molding. When the panel is glassed and bagged one side only. It leaves the panel flexible to bend and shape. The second skin is added after the bend to lock it in a permenant sandwhich. If a panel made only needs to be flat. both sides can be glassed. The top will need a covering with peel ply fabric before bagging.

http://www.geocities.com/bcrepeau.geo/index20PANEL.html

I'll also post a link to a page where we pull down 40' hull panels complete to gelcoat. This also shows the edge treament which is very important when attaching more than1 panel together I also have a print that covers this if needed.

http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Shores/1748/index13topsidepanels.html

This is still the most ecenomical way to pull a smooth panel. I feel this will change soon with the intro of resin infusion but still isn't cost effective for the one time panel builder.

[nassaw]

I read somewhere on this list that a panel should be bent green. This is deff. a no no. Green stating the panel hasn't fully cured and has spots that are not consistant and the panel is unstable to bend. Its best to wait for a cure and if a tight bend is required. Use a lighter cloth. Score the sacrificial foam core. Its the skin we intend to bend with the core attached. When the 2nd skin is applied. We have created a sandwhich

[wellcraft26]

Hi! I'm new to this forum, I been reading for a few days and is great. I'm currently rebuilding a mako 224 and I'm planing in building a new fiberglass top and I was wondering if ther is another way I can open those 2 links?
Thanks in advance

[Russ]

I have built many Fiberglas Hardtops and use the flat table system to create the skin. If the finished part requires a bend I put down a Gel Coat, one layer of ounce and one half mat then a peel ply.
Let it set overnight, demold and shape by laying in a 2x4 frame, gel side down. Now remove the peel ply and finish the layup as thick as needed. The peel ply eliminates the need to sand in most cases.
If the top needs to be a compound curve of sorts it can be split and seamed prior to the addition of the finish layup.

[wellcraft26]

Thanks for the reply. I have a Mako 224 and since is going to be for a t-top what is the minimum thickness of fiberglass for the each side?

[Russ]

You should be able to do fine with a little over one quarter which equates to two more mats and one layer of 10 oz 1500 type cloth. The cloth will give you a nice interior finish and will help you to roll the wet out with not so much resin.

[wellcraft26]

Instead of using foam for the sandwich, can I make a frame with lumber?
Here in PR we don't have any place who sell foam, I want t o get some I have to order to the US and the shipping is very expensive. r helping me out
Thnaks fo

[wellcraft26]

BTW do you have plans or blueprint of one hard top?

[Russ]

The top I described has no foam core. It depends on the tubular frame for support. If a core is used it would be bedded in right after removing the peel ply. The inside finish would then be one 1-1/2 oz mat and the 10 oz cloth.
You will still need a support frame of some kind to attach the top to. In your case I presume a curved surface which in itself is strong. A frame is still needed though.

[wellcraft26]

Yes, you are right it will have a tubular frame

[Russ]

Wellcraft, It's hard for me to believe there is no foam in PR. check further. If you find liquid 2/3 # density foam you can make a tray from 2x4s and poly to pour a bunch. after it gets hard you can slice it as you want.