K-19 just bought plans

[gotthebug]

just bought plans for K-19 by Northwest Marine Design, has anybody built this boat, i have no experience with cedar strip or boatbuilding although i am a joiner by trade.I am in need of advice to say the least.

[mlv]

I'm in the process of building a K-19 also.

I would recommend going to http://www.bearmountainboats.com/ and buying Ted Moores books Canoe Craft and Kayak Craft. The procedure for the K-19 is basically the same as for a canoe or kayak. You just need a larger, stronger strongback.

I've built 2 canoes and 3 kayaks following Moores books. He has the best directions for handling epoxy and fiberglass that I've seen anywhere. The first boat was a Freedom 17 9 from bear mountain boats. I built it with my dad (a retired carpenter). We used Canoe Craft as our guide and things went really well.

Good Luck,

MLV

[bjl_sailor]

Hi:

I've been working on my k-19 since August. The hull is nearly ready for turning. A nasty cold spell here in NEW england has shut down my epoxy work for a bit so I am impatient to get her coated, finished and turned. (I've posted some in progress picts previously with more film to be developed and scanned)

I'm using 1/2" thick bead and cove western red cedar planking. Compared to my 12' Compumarine Classic dinghy with a wine glass transom, the planking was very easy with little multi -twist hard to fit planks to lay. I've started the fir lifts for both the dagger board and rudder.

I'm determined to finish the hull clear and it looks good so far (not perfect but good)... I also want a little different deck finish. Plans call for 2 1/4" layers of okoume for decking with 5.8 OZ cloth over that. I'm planning to do a single layer of 1.4" ply over the framing and then lay a series of 3/16" thick by 2.5" wide meranti plancks down in a bed of epoxy tinted cream color between measured spaces.

The other thing I am not delighted by is the profile of the cockpit bulkheads. You'll notice that it is a rather 'sharp' corner were the deck and bulkeads meet. I'd like to "round" out this profile i.e. more like a 420's curving cockpit 'tubes'...

Another thing, check your plans. Gondola sent me a set of plans with a duplicate sheet and one page of the plans missing -- with bulkhead profiles. After I wrote him over it he was rather pissy and informed me I can'easily' make a template in lieu of the missing drawing sheet....

Whatever. I like the design but I wouldn't expect alot of 'support' from Mr. Gonodola.... Please let me know how it goes!

cheers bjl

[mlv]

I got this reply from Gondola on that subject:

>My daughter asked about doing the deck and cockpit in glass sheathed strip
and radiusing >some of the corners. (we've built several strip kakaks and
canoes)Would this be a >problem? What glass cloth weight and strip
thickness would you recommend if we were to >do this.

If you want that look I would recommend putting down a 1/4" Okoume ply
underlayment followed by 1/4" strips. The deck provides a lot of the
transverse stiffness that the boat needs to resist the rig forces. You could
probably can go without the underlayment and just use full thickness strips
but I'd feel a bit better if it was there. Glass both sides and avoid using
heavy wood types for the strips if you can. The boat is already gaining
weight because of the hull material so you need to watch what you do here
because it can all add up faster then you think. Try and keep the dry deck
weight to as close to 1.2 lbs per sq. ft. as you can.

Cheers,

A C Gondola, N.A.
Northwest Marine Design

[bjl_sailor]

Interesting. I think both aesthetically and also comfort wise. ' Rounding' that cockpit side edge is going to be an important modification. I mean when you are hiking that hard edge is going to dig in.... My plan is to build the forward 3 bulkeads as per plan and then set up some 1/4" cheap luan ply mock up bulkheads and mess with the profile that way. I'm also going to splurge and buy a teak and hollly veneered plywood cockpit sole. All the same I am fully sensitive to extra weight and everythings been built to spec so far with 5.8 oz

That and the the 1/8"-3/16" meranti planked decks, natural hull. I can remember with great awe and fondness of two clear finished, mahog veneered Thistles that raced in our local one of a kind handicap fleet in the late '60's when I was a kid.... That's the kind of "woody high perf" that I am going for...

No work this weekend -- weather is in the teens 30 mph wind and no chance I could get my uninsulated metal building shop up to resin curing temp...

[bjl_sailor]

Hi folks:

I ahd posted a few images of this project earlier in another thread but thought I'd place it in this one to help give the the folks with plans a little idea of what's ahead.

One is of the boat as I am close up the planking. Admitted a poor quality photo ( you shouldn't put unporcessed rolls of film through the wash I've learned). You can clearly see what is called ( I think the hog or internal keel).

Other shots of the boat after fairing. I intentionally attached one of the area I ahd problems with tearout and subsequent filling that shows preety bad. Oh well more carefull next time. The problem was the nails would be comming out cleanly and then tear out the wood. others I was just clumsy or impatient and nicked the wood more than I wanted to. If I finished clear no worries of course...

[mlv]

Looks good. What strip width did you use?

I've just gotten started planking. So far, so good.

[bjl_sailor]

Mine were 3/4" wide by 1/2" bead and cove. It looks like your strips are quite a lot wider. You'll be narrowing them to make the bilge turn I suspect? Horrible weather, ahven't been able to work with epoxy for nearly 3 weeks...

[bjl_sailor]

I've been looking at my hull for some time wondering about the turning process. Even with the hull sheathed on the outside the gunwales look pretty flexy/floppy until the boat is turned and the inner gnwale is laminated in. The plan calls for something like 3/8" thinck x 1 1/4" luan lamination and that's it plus the decking system.

I'm worried while turning the boat the whole hull shape may be distorted. I've been kicking around the idea of adding a permanent "outerwale" to outside prior to turning. besides altering the hull deck joint it also adds more pounds - something the designer admonishes you not to do.

Any thoughts?

[mlv]

I'm inclined to try to keep the weight down. Wood strip - glass epoxy construction is really strong. It's tempting to add structure and overbuild, but you really don't need it.

I don't think you need to worry about the hull shape being distorted before you glass the inside. Even if the hull is pretty floppy, I think you only need to have it close to final shape when you glass the inside. The sheer clamp will stiffen it up some, but it will still be pretty floppy until the bulkheads go in. If it shifts a little, you should still be able to realign it when the bulkheads are installed. I think the hull to deck joint should be fine as drawn. Since they meet at ~ 90 deg, they should each act as a stiffener to the other. (at least it works that way on the kayaks).

I've been thinking about the turning process too, but I still have some time before I have to seriously worry about it.

I have figured out that I'll need help. The hull should weigh ~ 160 lb when it's turning time. Based on how floppy the canoes were before the inside was glassed, I think you're right about it being floppy. I think the main thing is to get it over without concentrated loads on an unsupported section. If you leave some molds installed, it will probably be pushing 200 lb. I have it in my garage, so I may build an A frame and use a chainfall or a come along. (or get my 6'4" 300 lb brother to visit)

I saw a idea in a book that I think I might try. While the boat is still inverted on the mold, I plan to build the cradle on top of the inverted boat. That way the hull is still supported by the mold and I won't distort it with the cradle. Then I can remove the cradle, flip the hull and align it on the cradle.

I plan to leave a couple of molds in place - screwed at the gunnels at least. Probably the #11 and the #7, maybe one more forward. (the #11 can be screwed pretty securely, since most of the hull gets trimmed short of it. I'll probably screw through the glassed topsides to the #7 mold and do the topsides painting after I turn the hull. I plan to screw some 2x4 to the molds that I leave in place and make a frame (kind of like a partition, the 2x4s on the molds as studs and some plates screwed to the ends of them) to take the load during turning. I'll support the frame on saw horses and then remove the rest of the mold and strongback from under the boat. Then I'll lower one side to the floor and raise the other side with the chain fall while sliding the lower side across the floor under it. When it is half over, I can lower it with the chain fall.

With a couple of molds in place, I should be able to flip it without breaking anything. With a cradle that fits the hull well between the molds that I leave in place, I should be able to align the hull until the two molds are level and the hull should be true. Then I plan to use two or three spreaders at the gunwhale to keep the hull the right width while I install the sheer clamps and glass the inside.

On the strip kayaks that I built the hulls were really floppy and twisted quite a bit, even after glassing the inside. Once I installed the decks with the sheer clamps attached, everything aligned well.

have fun,

mlv

[bjl_sailor]

Yes, I like your idea of building a supporting cradle while the hull is inverted. Have seen that on larger hulls -- I used 5/8" particle board for molds -- very very heavy but cheap and dimensionally stable. I too like the idea of retaining several molds during turning. I have metal joists above, two 2 ton come alongs and a bunch of former 34' 1/2" halyards and webbing -- also ten guys at the ready for a thirty pack if need be. The turning is not so much the worry but the percieved threat of distorting the hull.

BTW I have already trimmed my transom back ( roughly from the offsets leaving a good 1/8" to clean up and will also route and radius over the dagger board slot. I Thought it would be easier to layout and cut these before turning. Esp the dagger board slot. I'm going 5/16" radius the slot all around and impregnate the whole cross section with epoxy. I don't need a straight sharp edge there for planing purposes do I?

My interior glass sheathing won't be glass. In naive fervor I went out and bought $26.oo per running yard kevlar/carbn fiber composote fabric. -- I figure it would make a super strong rigid hull -- but have since seen postings that it is not only overkill but also won't greatly increase strength unless used on both sides of the coring material. Oh well a chance to try out an expensive high tech material in an area where "t's application learning curve" won't be seen. I understand both carbon and kevlar are difficult to properly wet out without vacuum bagging...

Oh another thing! before you buy your doug fir for the dager board and rudder sections. There was an excellant posting about doing them in foam and relying on a carbon skin to provide most struture. If I wasn't 3/4 through cutting lifts I would hove tride that and will probally end up making another set of foils that way -- eventually.

Allright enough for now. Rather cool there are now three of us building or with plans for the same boat. The k-19 was my answer to the fact i couldn't find plans to cold mold a thistle sailboat. Also I really enjoy strip building the hulls. For me, to see the gorgeous sweet shape emerge slowly out of the skelton of plywood is infinitely enjoyable. And the smell of western red cedar being faired with a long board is far better than poleyester resin fumes from a C-Flex boat....

I

[mlv]

I set up the mold the first week of January and have been working a little each night and on the weekend. I'm hoping for a launch late this summer. How about you?

I also cut the hole for the daggerboard already. When the planking has covered it, I plan to rout a radius on it also - probably 1/4 in. I plan to wrap the outside glass sheathing over the radius inside of the dagger board hole when I glass the outside. I cut the hole ~ 1/16" oversize. I plan to make a plug the right size out of scrap wood, cover it with plastic film packing tape, and put it in position while the epoxy is still soft. Then when I flip the hull, I plan to use the plug to align the daggerboard well to the hole when I install it.

How did you lay out the transom trim? I had thought of cutting a couple of triangles at the right angle and mounting the station 11 mold to the station 10 mold at the right position and angle. The station 11 mold is smaller than the transom so it will be undersized, but I thought I could manage to follow the surface close enough with a hand saw.

I had already cut the lifts for the daggerboard and rudder. I used redwood, a little expensive but clear and easy to work. I used all thread to bolt the lifts together and plan to cut it off recessed with a dremel and leave it in place for additional tensile strength. I am planning on using the glass schedule specified for the rudder on the daggerboard as well. I'm 6'6" and 265 lb and if (or should I say when?) I turtle it, I don't want to break the daggerboard trying to right the boat.

Have fun,

mlv

[Billy Bones]

Great progress gentlemen. It's nice to see some of these being built. I've had plans for the K19 for about 5 years now.

Slightly OT: has anyone contemplated/built/sailed the K23? I've always wondered about the larger model but no one has given it a try that I've heard.

[mlv]

I thought about it, but the water I have available is too thin. It looks like a decent boat.

mlv

[bjl_sailor]

Good ideas about the dagger board cutout. I was originally planing on cutting it when turned but than began thinking also of radiusing the opening and now that she is still on her back I measured it out and cut it open and radiused it as you've done 5/16" R . Merely epoxied it, now I worry I should have also sheathed it...

I used doug fir for my dagger board lifts and have exactly the same thoughts of keeping the 1/2 threaded rod in the board as I too am a bit heavy for a dinghy sailor -- 6'1" 230. I have bought a large amount of hybrid carbon fiber / kevlar 5.8 oz cloth and will use that in two laminations as careful as can be and then a 'sand it smooth layer' of S glass. Plans call for it to be 'neutrally' bouyant with something like 32 lbs of lead. The greater part of 2 1/2 X 48" steel threaded rods should weigh about what?...and then How about a DB 1 extra lift of lead for the tip made with a plaster of paris mold thats nicely rounded. An extra 1 5/8" bit of foil that will weigh 10-15 lbs...


I am currently HLVP spraying my hull after enormous effort wet sanding with 220 grit the 4 coats of epoxy I put over my 5.8 oz S glass. (this also entailed a 30 pack) Boasting a bit, it's pretty damn handsome. and now 15 coats of polyurethane 'spar varnish' -- Ok extraneous coats as I had/have a learning curve with new spray equipment to master. Then more 320 grit wet sanding until I can't stand it any more.... I've been saying I am ready to turn for months now... shooting for a late June launch... Planking was finished the week before Thanksgiving.-- Holidays delay and the Cold weather and fb lamination/sanding hell has been my existence since then.

For the transom. I marked off all the waterlines shown on the plans and then measured out level all the offsets he has on the profile plan from the profile in -- 5 points I think -- not enough to use a flexible batten and get a fair curve. -- So I cut big and will keep the two most aft stations in the boat until she's turned and I can make a pattern of heavy card stock --- I'll put the transom in temporarily fastened, make sure it is equidistant at both sheers against the last mold station and fillet it in and then take the belt sander to knock off the 'extra' hull left outside-- sound reasonable do you think?

I don't like the rudder box detail. Thinking it just isn't 'stonka' enough -- I know how much weather helm can be generated when you are blasting around over sailed, enjoying the ride and throwing your weight out to make up for a lack of caution.... Have you thought of a trapeze? The boat seems to cry for it...

Last thing of concern -- for now. I really want to curve the inside cockpit lip. The cautions about weight build up and also changing an 'as drawn design detail' concern me. But that inner deck lip as drawn is too harsh. It will hurt when hiking and it looks boxy. Why bust your butt strip planking a lovely hull form and then have nasty hard 'plywood boat' hard edges where you'll be seating/leaning out? Does the designer sail? Next time I build I will make a 1/8" scale model and look at these things in real time in the real world...

Thoughts: perhaps a 3" radius ease over. And then 4 layers of 1/8" Okuoume encourged by hot wet towels to conform extending 3" inches either side of the radius then but joined against the deck. Epoxy putty on the inner cockpit wall helps 'ease the lower lip into the 1/4" Okoume side panels.... Crap more sanding...

[mlv]

8 ft of 1/2 in steel all thread should weigh ~11 lb. I wouldn't worry about not glassing the radius on the daggerboard cut out. It isn't an area you should be able to hit anything with. If you do, you're probably having a bad day anyway and glass probably would not help.

I'm not comfortable with a completely neutral buoyancy on the dagger board. I wouldn't want to miss slightly and have it sink. You should only need to have it weigh slightly more than the submerged part of the board. Then it should stay down in the case, but would float if it fell out in a capsize because of the additional buoyancy of the part in the case. I'll probably use a leash of some sort anyway. It would be really inconvenient to have it drift away or sink in the middle of a capsize.

I currently sail a Y flyer (http://www.yflyer.org/Discover%20the%20Y/discover_the_yflyer.htm). It weighs 500 lb and has about the same sail area on a shorter lower aspect ratio rig. The beam is 5'8" compared to the 7 ft on the k-19. Based on my experience with the Y, I wouldn't think the k-19 would need a trapeeze unless you went to a bigger sail plan. Try looking at the rig for a Flying Dutchman (http://www.sailingsource.com/sailfd/fdcr2004v3.pdf). 226 sq ft spinnaker on a 5' 10" beam.

Also based on my experience with the Y, I don't think the cockpit edge on the k-19 will be all that uncomfortable if you do the 1/2 in radius (or larger) that he calls for in the plans. The foot well on the Y (it really isn't much of a cockpit) is shallow enough that I haven't found the deck edge to be a problem. The depth of the foot well or cockpit on the k-19 is almost the same as on the Y. I think it's primarily an aesthetic thing - that was why I was considering changing it. Trying to get under the boom between the vang and a centerboard case that takes up the whole cockpit on the Y is pretty uncomfortable. That's why I was pleased to see that the vang is mostly forward of the cockpit on the k-19 and the dagger board case is a lot shorter fore and aft.

If you want to round it over with a 3" radius or so, you should be able to do something like the attached sketch with 1/2 in ply. Just cut back the corner at 45 deg, cap with a piece of 1/2 in ply and then shape it. When you go to shape it, remember that the low angle block plane and the spoke shave are your friends. it's a lot easier to sweep up shavings than it is to deal with all of that dust. you should be able to scribe off a few lines to get to an octogon with your plane and then smooth the corners with your body file or belt sander. If you want a larger than 3" radius, you could do it in segments - kind of like a multi chine hull but then round the chines.

have fun

mlv

[mlv]

Hi,

I've managed to finish planking the hull. I got the shaping and rough sanding finished this weekend. I still have to fill the screw holes and dings, install and shape the external stem and do the finish sanding. Not too much longer until I can glass the hull.

mlv

[bjl_sailor]

It looks great. Nice job.

[mlv]

Hello,

any pictures of your varnished hull?

what is your target turnover date, I'm curious to see how that exercise goes. I'm sort of torn between getting some guys over and using the armstrong method and doing something more complicated.

also, did you run the hull glass cloth fore and aft with a seam at bottom dead center?

mlv

[bjl_sailor]

I still ahven't gotten the hull turned. Am shooting for this weekend but bad/cold weather may again prevent it. I ahve photos of the varnished hull being developed will post when get them back -- (my first digital camera died and my 20 year old pentax 35 mm SLR has been called back from retirement....)

I've got a 'hull turning party planned' It wasn't so much the difficulty of rigging tackle to turn it as it is the weight/bulk of the strong back and cradle as they are muscled around. To keep the hull from flxing during turn; I've 1x3 "t's" made that fit just snug at 3 stattions. These are held in place with c clamps and pads along the sheer. The plan is to lift it clear leaving no particle board molds and to rely on the temp bracing until internal structures are added.

[bjl_sailor]

I finally got my hull turned this weekend! It went fairly smoothly. The hull broke cleanly away from the forms with little urging. -- I had originally planned to turn it suspended from the cileing straps but 8 guys showed up and we just muscled it...
I had duct taped the edges prior to laminating and that worked great. I ended up leaving two bulkheads -- amidships and 2nd to last from transom by clamping them by their cleats to the sheer ( with a clamping pad of course). This was rather important as I was rather surpised at how flimsy the whole assemble still is.
Yesterday I got about 3/8's of the interior cleanup and sanded. I should be glassing the inside of the hull this weekend...

Photos being developed. need to get an el cheapo digital camera :) !

[Thunderhead19]

OOOoooooo! Spiffy!

[mlv]

Glad to hear the turning went well. Still waiting with bated breath to see the varnish pictures.

Any advice for the turning process?

mlv

[bjl_sailor]

Will have pix of the varnished hull and the turning shortly. I strongly suggest you leave a most of the mold stations in place or brace extensively. The boat will not stand being rolled on its shear without reinforcement. I had several molds in place plus some additional athwartship bracing and it was still a bit hair raising...

[mlv]

I got the bottom fiberglassed last night and got the second coat of epoxy on tonight. Hope to get the third coat on tomorrow to avoid sanding between coats. I used MAS with the slow hardener.

:D

[bjl_sailor]

I'm getting ready to layout and cut out my perm bulkheads for the K-19. There are 5 stations. It looks like it would be very wastefull to do them as one peice cut outs. Do you think it would be ok to do an 8 to plywood scarf down the the vertical center line?

The scantlings call for 1/2" plywood and I have designs for a 40 foot racer/ crusier that also call for 1/2" think bukheads!!!

[mlv]

Scarfing sounds like a good idea to me. There would be no problem structurally with that approach. The only down side is that it's a little more work. For a larger boat, you have to do that anyway, since eventually the bulkheads will be larger than a sheet of plywood.

1/2" might be a little heavy for the bulkheads. The plans for a wood Y flyer call for 1/4" ply with glue strips on all edges. The deck and hull are 3/8" ply. The bulkheads are on a 20" spacing and have 3/4" x 1" glue strips all around. Fir ply is recommended. Fir is 20% heavier and stiffer than okoume. The lightening hole pattern is also more aggresive, but there is a vertical 3/8" ply backbone along the centerline of the boat.

You could probably go to 1/4" bulkheads if you added a gluing strip at the tops of the bulkheads to get good bonding to the deck. The fillets should take care of the bulkhead to hull joints. 1/2" ply is ~ 40 lb per sheet. The 5 bulkheads together probably weigh ~40 lb max with the waste cut out. If you went all the way to 1/4" ply bulkheads, you might be able to save as much as 20 lb less the additional weight of the glue strips under the deck and maybe some sort of centerline web like he shows under the cockpit. The total weight savings would probably be ~15 lb.

I don't know about the wood boats, but the glass Y Flyers aren't all that stiff. I think it may be due to the fact that the hull isn't all that deep. It's kind of like an 18 ft surf board. I weigh 260 and I'm going to go with the 1/2" bulkheads.

Have fun.

mlv

[bjl_sailor]

Hi:

I've gone through the Ronstan speced deck hardware, running and standing rigging and have compiled Harken equiv's in carbo blocks. Attached is a spread sheet that lists the Harken part number, brief descript, and three of the best vendor costs I've been able to find. AN outfit called www.mauriprosailing.com located I think in texas seems to have the best Harken pricing I've been able to find. I also listed out West (AKA "fist") Marine pricings which is basically undiscounted retail...
Bottom line: cadillac dinghy hardware all Harken Carbo except for a Lewmar small boat travelor is ~ $1350.00. Everything will be for 1/4" spectra -- gloves required...

I have put a simular list together for a Dwyermast, boom, Running and Standing rigging and that prices out at $1600.

I've asked for a North Sails quotation from the local RI North sailmaker and he hasn't given me the time of day yet. ( Busy time for him why build dinghy sails when he can build maxi yacht sails.... )Who will you be getting your sails made by?

Cheers

bjl

[bjl_sailor]

Well, these are pretty horrible quality pictures but at least you get an idea of what 'kind of trouble' of gotten myself into. Actually it is going ok. I will say they aren't kidding when they say it is very hard to sand kevlar/carbon fiber! I had a few stray strands around the seams -- which with s glass I can easily knock down with a my RO sander and some 80 grit. NOT so with 5.8 OZ kevlar/carbon composite!

[bjl_sailor]

Several more photos of progress on my K-19 sailboat project. I did not like at all the striaght edgeds drawn for the cockpit rim -- so I add a 2 1/2" radius -- which is as about as tight as I can get a 1/2 x 1/2 cedar strip around comfortably. Much more work but I think it looks better...

[Andy]

Any more progress guys?

[mlv]

I finished priming the hull and finished the bottom paint and the waterline stripe. We turned the hull over on 06-19-05. I built a frame around it prior to turning so we could handle the boat by the frame. The turning was uneventful.

Hopefully the inside shouldn't take too long to clean up.

mike v

[Andy]

looks great - what now?

Andy

[mlv]

I've managed to get the inside glassed. I glued in the sheer clamps and 4 of the 5 bulkheads. I still have the following tasks left to do:

1) fabricate and install the daggerboard case
2) install the main bulkhead
3) fabricate and install the mast platform
4) install the cockpit framing
5) install the transom
6) install the deck
7) paint the deck and topsides
8) install the deck hardware

I plan to have the deck installed by the end of October and be ready for launch in the spring. I started fabrication at the end of Jan 05, so it looks like ~ 1 year of spare time. I actually wasn't able to work on it much this summer because of the heat and humidity in Cincinnati.

mlv

[Billy Bones]

Whaddya say fellas? Time for an update? Can't have this one dropping off the front page. I've been enjoying enjoying following your progress.

[mlv]

finished bulkheads, dagger board case and mast platform. Ready to install cockpit framing and sole. Hope to start on deck soon.

mlv

[mlv]

Hi,

Haven't seen any postings for a while. I was wondering how you were coming along.

mlv

[Andy]

Were youu asking me or Billy Bones above?

Andy

[Billy Bones]

Another friendly bump, since we were on the very bottom of the page.

If you were asking me, I'm building a handybilly at the moment, with a few other ideas on the plate for the next project. I primed the hb exterior last night and will flip her tomorrow, physics and my lower back willing.

I have plans for the k19 and k23. While they are wildly impractical for me at the moment, I still enjoy the thought of building them someday. I like the idea of a performance boat that is forgiving enough to stay under the radar of the sailinganarchy types.

[mlv]

I've got the cockpit sole and sides glued in. They're trimmed to the transom. I'm going to wait until the deck is installed to fiberglass the outside of the cockpit and transom.

The side decks are screwed in place temporarily and trimmed to fit. The foredeck scarf is cut and glued. The scarfs between the foredeck and side decks are cut. The foredeck is screwed in place temporarily. I need to trim it and then remove it to cut the radii in where the side decks meet the foredeck at the main bulkhead.

I still need to seal the underside of the deck, but then I can glue the deck on.

so far, so good.

mike v

[mlv]

Getting close. Deck and cockpit fiberglassed, filling and fairing and getting ready to paint.

[Billy Bones]

Looking good! Thanks for the update. I'm still watching.

[aggie_jwayne]

I just recently found the boat design forums, and was very excited to see other people building the K-19. I bought the plans while I was still in school and quickly realized this was an after graduation project.The Harken hardware conversion list renewed my interest in plans I have had for a year now. Only two problems remain. Where did you find 1/2" bead and cove strips?(How many and what lengths did you use?) And finally sails, the source list in the plans have so far been very little help. Any tips you could share would be greatly appreciated.

[djwkd]

NEW england?! is that in england you mean?

[Billy Bones]

Bump?

[Billy Bones]

What the heck, another friendly bump.

It seems this time each year I dig out my k19 and k23 plans. Any progress on these boats, he asked hopefully?

[Andy]

I'll second that - any more happening with these boats guys? Are you in the final straights yet?

[mlv]

Launched the boat yesterday. Everything went well. We had 10-50 knots wind. It was well behaved and we had a great time. It planes easily and points well.

mlv

[mlv]

should be 10-15 knots, not 10-50

[mlv]

I just bought some 16 ft cedar 1x8 at the lumber yard. I couldn't get clear, so I bought extra and ripped the 1/2 in strips. I broke out the knots, squared the ends with a chop saw, sorted by length and threw out anything shorter that ~4 ft. I think I bought ~1.5x the quantity I would have for clear stock. I did butt joints on the mold and staggered the joints. I didn't bother with bead and cove, so I had some filling to do near the turn of the bilge. The bottom and sides are pretty flat, so you don't really need bead and cove there.

[Billy Bones]

WooooHooooo!

Congratulations and Well Done! She looks great and although it looks chilly I bet your sail was great too. Once you get a feel for her please give us another report. It's okay if you want to wait till spring!

Thanks so much for keeping this thread updated. Good job all round.

[rlmccook54]

I have been looking for plans for a small sailboat for a while. Can someone give me an idea of what the specifications for a K-19 are or direct me to a website so I can check it out.
Thanks

[mlv]

http://www.nwmarinedesign.com/

[Andy]

Looks great - lets see some more action pics?!

[retired racer]

It's a little confusing to me when people talk about using Okoume plywood or 1/2" thick strips. I've built numerous canoes with 1/4X3/4" strips or even 3/16" strips alone with no backing. As for turning corners the 3/4 strips have always done the trick easily although cheater strips sometimes come in handy. I'll explain what they are if anyone wants to know.

Am currently in the process of building my first kayak (endeavour 17, bear mountain) and using bead and cove strips for the first time. I'm not so sure yet if they are a good idea.

Which leads to my question on cedar strip building if there is anyone here who is knowledgable on the process. What is the best wood filler to use? I've used mixed epoxy and micro balloons with some success but am wondering if anyone uses an easy to sand coloured wood filler instead. There is one I've used which comes in little 4 oz. plastic containers which is expensive but works well and can be purchased in lots of wood colours. Anything good but cheaper being used?

Also, it's been a while since I last built in cedar strip (4 years) and I'm wondering if anyone has a favourite epoxy. I've used West and Coldcure and find Coldcure easier to word with because it's thinner but it does seem to give a darker colour to the wood. Any help?

[retired racer]

And just had another look at the thread and found that K19 is a sailboat and not a kayak. Sorry. Is there a more appropriate thread?

[Andy]

Bump. Is anyone else building this boat now? mlv - any more pics or info on how she sails etc.?

[Andy]

Bump again. Needing a wooden boat fix today.

[mlv]

the boat feels light and "corky". It's a little tender when not moving, but stabilizes as soon as it gets moving. The helm is light and responsive. The 7' beam is enough for hiking without trapeze (at least for a total crew load of ~400 lb.

won't be sailing for a couple of months - health issues

[Andy]

How are these boats going? Pics?

[mlv]

We've been sailing it a couple of seasons now. We're pleased with it. Don't have any sailing pictures, hope to get some this summer.

The boat planes easily with wind above 10 kt or so. We seem to be OK in winds up to around 18 kt without being overpowered. (Our combined crew weight is ~400 lb). The cockpit is open and easy to navigate for us old folks. Asymmetric spinnaker is easy to handle. It's the first boat we've had that my wife is comfortable with the spinnaker up.

Dagger board is on the upper end of being manageable. It's easy once installed (just a little above neutral buoyancy), but a little heavy to manage out of the water.

[dchobby]

I have been looking at the K19 design, now I am ready to get a set of plans and can not contact NW Designs.

Are they still in business?

I've tried two different emails listed on there site and did a whois search and that came up with the same emails I had tried.

Any suggestions?

Does someone have a set of plans for sale and nice looking build you did.

[mlv]

The last time I exchanged email with Tony he was in New Mexico at the tonyg@digital-flight.com address.

[dchobby]

The last time I exchanged email with Tony he was in New Mexico at the tonyg@digital-flight.com address.

Tried that, sure wish they had not gone out of business. All three of them.
:confused:

[cthippo]

Am I the only one who saw the title and thought you bought plans for a Russian submarine?

[mlv]

finally got some sailing pictures, wind was 6-8 kt.