View Full Version : C-Breeze Cabin top Structure
Prtndr37
05-07-2010, 01:30 PM
Hello,
I acquired the 50' ferro named MoonShadow...had some posts on here a year ago regarding Box Masts Fears... Anyway, gutting the entire inside, planning the new. I have a near full set of all blueprints and history, but can not find any info on the following subject...My Question.
Do the 3"x3" wood crossbeams that support the cabin top, have to be wood for compression issues of some sort?
I would like to have one piece metal supports bent, to replace the existing metal 15" riser that connects to the wood crossbeam.
Thank you in advance for your knowledge.
C.
Prtndr37
05-10-2010, 02:49 PM
Com'on....no insight?
souljour2000
05-12-2010, 08:17 PM
This forum has been a bit quiet for the last few months...at least in the sailboat areas ..wish I could help with an answer but be perhaps if you're a bit more patient someone quite knowledgeable mightl chime in soon...ferro-cemnt is an interesting subject really...though I am not overly familiar with that construction by any means...I wonder if alot of liberty-type troop ships could have been made even faster with ferro design and production process during WWII...but it's hard to imagine them being made any faster than they were plate -welded...there is an absolutely "Annapolis Naval Academy museum-quality" replica of the Liberty ship USS Sarasota here in the County Tax office( which is actually an old late 20's Hotel) which is about 7 feet long and I have to absolutely stand and marvel every time I drift over to the glass surrounding it and run my eyes over it...but I'm afraid I digress...anyways...good luck with your query...
alan white
05-12-2010, 11:38 PM
I'd assume the wooden 3 x 3s are for aesthetics alone. A steel structure would be no problem but would have to be dressed with something like wood to be attractive. Why not the wood, since the engineering is done?
Prtndr37
05-13-2010, 04:52 PM
The 15" risers, all the way around, are severly rusted at the deck line, plus the top corners, where the wood crossbeams meet the risers. The wood is also rotted at this junction. The whole top needs to come off and be rebuilt. It's easier to scrap, than to salavage those beams. I assumed they simply supported the top and whatever weight may be on it, but wasn't sure. Had a dream I removed the cabin structure, to find the hull caved in on itself the next day. I dont believe this is probable, but wanted some reassurance.
Thanks,
C.
I have no idea what is meant by "risers"?.....that's not really marine terminology....:D Are these vertical framing in the cabin sides? If so one piece frames extending from deck to deck (athwartships) would be good.
The usual argument against steel is weight...3" by 3" sounds very heavy for cabin top beams. The higher (above waterline) in the boat an item is, the lighter you want to make it. Usually cabin top beams are smallish and closely spaced, for this boat something like 1.75" wide by 2.5" high, spaced 12-15", with a 3/4" ply top. Or you can cold-mold a top with no beams, make a form to the right camber and glue 3 layers of 3/8" ply together over it. Saw to shape and install with 2 layers of 12oz glass over.
I am one of the original guys that built the ferro cement ketch Moonshadow in Canada back in the 1970's, After using the boat for only a couple of years, sold it to Captain Ed. I am really sorry to hear of his passing. I enjoyed a day with Ed sailing on Moonshadow about 3 years ago, and was impressed with the condition of the boat after so many years, it made me feel great. I was especially sad to hear of Moonshadow sinking. I am sure that I can be of assistance to you in your restoration project. I am glad that you are doing this. I have original photos of the construction and of course lots of memories and history to share if you are interested. You may contact me at jrll472000@yahoo.com
Best regards,
Richard
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