Looking for: a 10' s&g multi-chine sailing pram

[Seafarer24]

I'm looking for a 10' sailing pram that is built stitch and glue with multiple chines. It should have a freestanding sprit or balanced lug rig.

Something right between CLC's 8' Eastport Pram and 11.5' Passagemaker Dinghy.

Basically, a S&G version of the larger Nutshell.

Does anyone know of something that fits these requirements :confused:

[bistros]

I'm looking for a 10' sailing pram that is built stitch and glue with multiple chines. It should have a freestanding sprit or balanced lug rig.

Something right between CLC's 8' Eastport Pram and 11.5' Passagemaker Dinghy.

Basically, a S&G version of the larger Nutshell.

Does anyone know of something that fits these requirements :confused:

You may want to look at Eric McNicholl's design. Check out http://microskiff.blogspot.com - although the described project is for kid's, Eric has done a larger version of the same design.

His website etc. are listed on the blog.

--
Bill

[Seafarer24]

That boat has ONE chine, not multiple. Which is why I find it to look somewhat ugly.

This is multichine:
http://www.arwenmarine.com/Images/EastportL420.jpg
http://www.clcboats.com/images/photos/boats/silosanddrawings/PRAM_silo.jpg

I want something like this, but 10' long.

[messabout]

Perhaps you are more interested in aesthetics than utility. To each his own.

Since your location is Tampa Bay, you can find the resident genius nearby. Contact Roger Allen at Manatee Maritime Museum in Cortez. Roger will know more about this sort of thing than anyone. Also, there are a bunch of boat nuts to be found at Lewis Boat Works, 39th Ave. East in Bradenton. This is a hobby type outfit where all sorts of folks gather to build small boats. They may very well have some useful input. The TSCA members around the museum will also know about the sort of boat that you fancy.

[Seafarer24]

Messabout,

You have a great way of cutting to the quick of things. Yes, I am more concerned with aesthetics than maximum utility / performance. If I were strictly after performance I would build B&B Yachts Spindrift (http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/spin.htm). In fact, I still might.

However, I'm certain I can find a pretty boat that still performs to my satisfaction.

Thanks for the tip about Roger Allen, that Mellonseed he built is beautiful. I'm actually planning to move my big boat to the village as soon as I go through the engine and get a new anchor.

[AnalogKid]

how about Paul Fishers 10' Skylark (http://www.selway-fisher.com/Skylarkup13.htm#AR), double chine sailing pram from Selway-Fisher?

[lewisboats]

Sounds like you might need to commission it.

[Seafarer24]

AnalogKid- Thanks for the link, I had seen the Skylark before but completely forgotten about it. He mentions plans for a strip-planked version as well, so maybe I could convince him to come up with something that looks more like a lapstrake boat.

Lewisboats- You may be right about getting one commissioned. Either that, or bastardize another, similar design into what I want.

[John.E]

... maybe I could convince him to come up with something that looks more like a lapstrake boat.

I've just built a version of Pauls 'Redshank' and in these plans he offers an option for 'clinker/lapstrake' by simply adding 1cm or there about to the bottom of each strake (except the garboard) and then chamfer the face of the plank it lays over to suit. Maybe a simple solution without the cost of a one-off commision?

[Seafarer24]

I sent Paul Fisher an e-mail at the same time as my previous post. He as already responded to say "Sure, no problem. I can re-do it for clinker construction or add more chines for S&G".

Excellent customer service! I can't wait to order the plans!

[uncleralph]

I'm looking for a 10' sailing pram that is built stitch and glue with multiple chines.

How about this:
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/danielsboat/index.htm

[Seafarer24]

uncleralph- Pointy bow = not a pram. Frames = not stitch-and-glue.
It is 10' long and pretty though.

[ancient kayaker]

For S&G you'll need accurate plank developments: a lot of designers don't provide those. So unless you plan to pass the lines thorugh a program like Free!Ship you will have to start with a design intended for S&G.

[AnalogKid]

I've ordered 3 sets of plans from Paul Fisher so far, 2 kayaks and a dinghy (11'6" Rhum). Two have been fully developed for true S&G construction, one of the kayaks has the bottom edge of each panel fully developed and the top edge is an approximation requiring a fairing baton and a block plane to get it just so. I think this is the case with his earlier plans, so it would be worth asking about such details on the plans for the boat you intend to build.

I've corresponded directly with him a couple of times and got goo, straight advice. There's also a Yahoo group for builders of his designs which is becoming a little more active in the last few months, with plenty of pictures of completed boats of various designs.

[messabout]

I meant no disrespect when I mentioned Aesthetics vs utility. I like elegant boats too.

A fellow in my town is has almost finished a little ten footer from the drawing board of Ian Oughtred. It is pointy at one end, lap straked, (lots of em) and decidedly gorgeous. You might explore some of the little boats from that designer. His boats are not S&G types.

I can put up a pretty stubborn argument against S&G builds if the boat is more involved than a flat bottomed skiff. I claim that the boat can be built faster and cleaner using conventional construction methods such as those described by Tom Hill and others. All that hole drilling and wiring and unwiring and panel layouts and wire hole filling are more time consuming than building a proper form with ribbands and all. The difference is that a considerable part of the build time is involved in making the forms. It doesn't look like a boat soon enough for some people to endure. Once the form is built the rest is easy sledding.

[ancient kayaker]

... I can put up a pretty stubborn argument against S&G builds if the boat is more involved than a flat bottomed skiff. I claim that the boat can be built faster and cleaner using conventional construction methods such as those described by Tom Hill and others. All that hole drilling and wiring and unwiring and panel layouts and wire hole filling are more time consuming than ...

I agree. I helped a buddy make a S&G boat and it was a pain. Drilling, wiring, fiddling to get the planks to meet along the entire length of every chine was time consuming enough. Later there was the sanding down of what seemed to be rock-hard epoxy fillets with the dust and risk to lungs. Put me off that method of construction for good. Also it is a lot harder to fit bulkheads inside an existing hull than it is to bend planks around a bulkhead.