Tillamook build

[azzeegator]

I will be starting my first build in the next few months and would like a little advice from all ya'll experts if ya don't mind.The boat will be the "Tillamook"
one of Jeff Spira's designs.It's a pacific power dory about 16'4" frame on ply
Now my questions are I live in north florida and boat will be used mostly in the Gulf of Mexico with some lake or river fishing occasionally so would live oak be good for frames and chine logs/sheer clamps or would SYP be best?
we have very high humidity down here but boat will be trailored and only used on daily trips also has anyone built one of the Spira boats?
Thanks for any input

[alan white]

Either wood will do, and white or live oak is superior in terms of strength and fastener-holding, though heavier than SYP. Any trailored boat, if kept drained of rain water, will last well.
Wasn't Tillamook originally a log boat turned schooner that crossed the northern Pacific?

[azzeegator]

I'm not sure of the history of the boats but did find alot of pics on the web of them in use in the northwest www.pbase.com/jeffm/dory2004&page=all thanks

[PAR]

I'd use the SYP to save weight and have better rot resistance and less swelling issues then the oak. Save the live oak (my favorite oak) for rub rails and other abuse prone areas.

[azzeegator]

Thanks PAR how should the wood be dried? I believe it should be air not kiln?
how will I know the difference at a lumberyard? It will be fiberglassed
Thanks again for the input!:)

[apex1]

I will be starting my first build in the next few months and would like a little advice from all ya'll experts if ya don't mind.The boat will be the "Tillamook"
one of Jeff Spira's designs.It's a pacific power dory about 16'4" frame on ply
Now my questions are I live in north florida and boat will be used mostly in the Gulf of Mexico with some lake or river fishing occasionally so would live oak be good for frames and chine logs/sheer clamps or would SYP be best?
we have very high humidity down here but boat will be trailored and only used on daily trips also has anyone built one of the Spira boats?
Thanks for any input


May I complain here a bit???


It is absolutely inconvenient for the members of this Forum to throw in just a name of a given situation, boat, design, and assuming everyone has to know what we are talking!

You are unpolite!

Provide at least some sufficient data, and / or a picture if you´re talking a state, boat, design, YOU are familiar with!
A link in the second post does not help really!

In this case your neighbours have been happy enough with the given info, but the rest of the forum stays as stupid as before!?!


Regards
Richard



Thanks PAR how should the wood be dried? I believe it should be air not kiln?

In general you will not notice a difference (the professional world uses kiln dried), the "natural" dried is better though. But, as mentioned, for a amateur building the faults one sums up during building makes the difference between drying methods a laughable issue.

[azzeegator]

My bad why so serious? these were simple questions on a simple build very basic.The plans are on jeff's website spirainternational

[mark775]

I had no idea either and was just about to ask. Here it is; http://www.spirainternational.com/hp_till.html I'd also like the fresh curds, please (Tillamook is dairy country).

[PAR]

What are your reasons to build this particular boat Azzeegator?

[azzeegator]

I needed something that will fit in my garage because of HOA also the history of the dory was interesting and it seemed to be within my scope of ability and space for the build.I had a whaler and did extensive repair to delamenated transom and bottom also had soaked foam so boat was heavy.I should be able to take the family out and it should be a good fishing boat for inshore, it can get a little ruff even close in at cedar key

[azzeegator]

I came across this website yachtsurvey.com it has some great general info if anyone is interested I'm trying to get as much info as I can before I start my first boat.The pine should work great for frames,keel,chine/sheers Maybe I'll use some white oak for trim and finish clear that should look great, for fiberglass/epoxy RAKA sounds good to me very good website also I should begin building the jig sometime in november with the real work starting in december I will post some pics then

[azzeegator]

I am wondering about screws to use for the boat I have different opinions about which kind to use I was going to go ahead and get silicon bronze but they are expensive and Jeff Spira which I got my plans from has stated stainless deck screws would be fine on a trailered boat it will be encapsilated in epoxy and I know that some builders even remove all screws just curious if anyone has some insight thanks

[boat fan]

I am wondering about screws to use for the boat I have different opinions about which kind to use I was going to go ahead and get silicon bronze but they are expensive and Jeff Spira which I got my plans from has stated stainless deck screws would be fine on a trailered boat it will be encapsilated in epoxy and I know that some builders even remove all screws just curious if anyone has some insight thanks



If you epoxy glue the whole boat you can use dry wall screws and remove them once the epoxy is set.
Just fill the holes after.
I re - decked a 16 ft daysailer like that . No troubles .

A decent epoxy glue line is stronger than the plywood.

[azzeegator]

I kinda came to that conclusion after researching more it seems that leaving the screws in would be a waste of money and potentially create some problems down the road
Thanks for the input! can't wait to get started just waitin for my bonus! so I can purchase supplies

[boat fan]

I kinda came to that conclusion after researching more it seems that leaving the screws in would be a waste of money and potentially create some problems down the road
Thanks for the input! can't wait to get started just waitin for my bonus! so I can purchase supplies


Yes ! ...I forgot to mention ....screws left in the hull are a good way for water to migrate into the plywood via the threads of fastener. Make sure that the joint is not starved of epoxy ....apply an initial coat to soak in , after that cures , abrade with rough s/paper to key glue to plywood. More epoxy with thickener and your`e good to go .....

If you get stubborn screws that don`t want to come out , ( I had one or two ) you can free them easily by heating the head of the screw with a soldering iron .

Post pics if possible .......Best of luck

[azzeegator]

Right on Mate! will post pics