starting at the bottom....

[58ketch]

We've recently purchased a beautiful old piece of history...a 1958 41' Dickerson Ketch ..that has some "issues".
Her bottom needs recaulking ,a few planks replaced and some seams are far too wide to simply recaulk as is.
We are thinking of using cypress "fillers" and recaulking with 5200 for a more "permanent fix" ..we have also, considered using cotton.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

As it happens I have just read through a thread on this subject elsewhere in this forum that suggests that poly-sulfides would be the appropriate caulking for this exercise. That is an interesting perspective and arguable point. However, in my experience, not necessarily the case with a classic wooden boat kept in salt water year round. The other thread was in regard to a boat being trailered part of the year , I believe so, ....

Has anyone here tried poly-sulfides in milder ( South-central Atlantic) waters?

[PAR]

Unfortunately, there isn't any real "permanent fix" in this case. There are only a few reasons seams open and you have to address these reasons or the miracle goo will just fall out.

You see with carvel hulls, it's vitally important that the planks are edge set hard against each other. If for one reason or another they can't, then you have to fix this, not just pack the seams full of goo.

In a different vain, if you use 3M 5200 on your seams, you will surely destroy them in the areas it stays stuck (not especially likely on soaked planks). By this I mean 3M 5200 has ruined many a carvel bottom. It can't be removed and renewed without tearing out large portions of wood. So if you elect to go the 5200 route, be warned the next time you have to deal with your leaking bottom, it will probably mean new planking.

Planking is a consumable item on a boat, just like a fuel filter. Your has half a century of service and is past it's useful life span. You may be able to replace the garboards and broads and piece meal the remainder, but you're still fooling with half a century old materials.

You might get a few more seasons from her planking with seam repairs. This entails cutting open the seams to removed the work hardened wood, then gluing strips of the same species wood and recaulking the "freshened" planks. You could also consider "wedge seaming" her, but I'd only do this on good planking, not the stuff that was on your grand father's boat.

The bottom line is probably her fasteners and other structural elements. Has she had a comprehensive survey preformed? Not an insurance survey, where the guy walks around, looks in the bilge and says "nice boat" and leaves, but a real survey where it takes a full day and the guy is good and dirty when he's done.

[Omeron]

Re planking this boat entirely is a daunting process to say the least.
Would sheating her outside with glass and epoxy be a solution? Or is the boat flexing too much to allow this? I dont think weight is an issue here.

[58ketch]

Sheathing the bottom, in this case , would be out of the question. The bottom planks are, for all intents and purposes, in excellent condition, quite solid and worthy of restoration. Were that not the case, I would consider "encapsulation" with West System and barrier coatings after some seam filling.

Par, you are correct in saying that planks open for only a few reasons but, I disagree with you regarding the "useful life" of a plank, in general. These honduras mahogany planks are in very goo to excellent condition. Wooden boats flex constantly, as you know. 50 years of shrinking and swelling changes even the most robust planking and happens each time she is hauled or railed for repair.

The jury is still out among many deadrise builders as to whether planking should be tight (which often causes planks to split or become unfastened through curling) or left fairly loose and caulked (which has its own set of problems). It would seem something in the middle that allows for shrinking and swelling (to some degree) and also relies on swelling for a bug-tight fit would be ideal.

This leads me to the notion that spiling out the seams, evening them and then sistering one side with cypress or mahogany and then using some type of caulk in a seam that is faire and less than 3/16" (preferably around 5/32) would give a workable and fairly "permanent fix" to the problem at hand...given that "permanency" is a relative term in this case.

As it happens, the previous owner IS a surveyor and I am a yacht carpenter.

So,..about that poly-sulfide....?? Think that might fit the bill with the above application?

[PAR]

I think we both know that sheathing is a great way to kill your boat.

The planking may be useful, if it's refastened, but not with the original fastener holes, which have "egged" out, likely have soft spots surrounding them and as a result of the movement now have worked the fasteners themselves. The seams themselves also have work hardened after 50 years and just may not take any more compression, short of hammer blows.

With the exception of a few cases, all having exceptional care and being on very light weight hulls, I've never seen planking that old that's still serviceable without substantial refastening. Without tight fasteners, you can caulk your brains out and it'll still leak. The seams also need to be dressed and repaired. I would never recommend anything other the the same species used as the repair material, to restore seams. I've learned this the hard way with early attempts at wedge seaming.

Yes, there's a debate over the "state" of the planking when caulking. It's generally accepted that the planks should be moderately loose, dependant on moisture content, but as to how to determine this amount is a judgment call made by the caulker.

I wouldn't put much faith in the "deadrise" crowd's opinion of how to caulk boats. Not that they haven't a clue, quite the contrary, but as a rule their boats are built of lesser materials, use flat sawn planking and much sloppier building tolerances. So, yes their flat sawn, file planked bottoms need fairly sloppy fits and huge seams by yacht standards, because they'll experience that much movement with moisture gain. This is typical of working craft, not your Dickerson.

If you're going to wedge seam, go ahead and wedge her. I wouldn't attempt a half wedge/half traditional seam, unless the wedge was more meranti and well glued to dry planking.

I always use polysulfide below the water line as polyurethane isn't reliable on water soaked wood. Polyurethane works well if it's under pressure during the cure and on dry wood the whole time. Then it stays stuck, like an ugly ex-girl friend. If the wood gets soaked before the cure or is damp during application or isn't under pressure during the full cure, it will pull off like long rubber strings.

I think wedge seaming could be a good solution for you if you're willing to do this level of effort. On a moored craft that doesn't see long on the hard stints, this is a good option. Personally, I'd refasten the old gal completely below the LWL, hoping for few bad holes, then I use a combination of techniques to fix the seams, some would just need dressing, others straightening, others some glued in repairs. Then I caulk her up again.

It sounds like you old ketch has found a good owner and yes, go ahead and raise the mizzen the height you need, it will not hurt a thing, though it will require making a few things longer.

[bntii]

58ketch- are the planks narrow on your Dickerson?

Par- I looked at 40' Dickerson in the past that was strip built with ~2" planks. Does this change your assessment and possible salvaging of the planking?
The one I looked at had opened up as well after years of dry storage. There was no caulking/paying used & I do not remember seeing the edge fasteners though they must have been present...

[PAR]

I know that Dickerson went through a few "phase" of ownership and build types. The ones I'm most familiar with are the hard chine 35's that gave the company it's reputation. I have to admit I was assuming (my bad) that this was a carvel build, which I eluded to in my first post. A stripped build is a different animal.

If it's a traditionally built stripped hull then I'd have to think about it some and have a better feel for what's going on. If a stripped hull starts leaking, it's because both the edge fasteners and plank to frame fasteners have egged out their holes and are permitting movement. It's very probable in this case that both the sheer strake (maybe) and garboard have regular caulk. I'd check the fasteners, replace the loose ones and pound the garboard good and tight on a moderately damp hull, not soaked, but still good and damp.

This is a lot easier to feel, smell and see then write about.

[58ketch]

I think this might be helpful....

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/041.jpg

As you can see, we have begun spiling out the old cotton and tar caulk. The planks are in excellent condition (5/4 mahogany) and of various widths..a few, too wide that we may kerf for relief and caulk. The bottom is well fastened and tight to her frames. The only seepage appears to be from her seams and one through-hull. We had sea water put in her bilge and it does not leak out at all...a good sign. The keel is quite solid with one small bit of rot in the garboard a few feet from the stem...otherwise, solid as a rock! I see no reason to disturb the existing bronze fasteners and adding more may alter her natural "growth patterns" from 50 years of working.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/046.jpg

This is what I'm thinking (and taking your suggestions under advisement) ...we'll complete the removal of the old caulk, clean the seams with a router or saw kerf and add back material to the edge of one side only leaving a small (1/8" or less) seam that can be caulked with a poly-sulfide ( I am partial to the stuff from Maritime Woods, myself)...re-paint her with some old "Red-Hand" we have around and top off with a fresh coat of Trinidad Blue.

Sound like a plan? or have you a better/different idea?

As you know, these old gals were modeled after the log cut bugeyes and were originally work boats. Dickerson mad their name by turning them out as pleasure boats in the 50's and soon after went to carvel planking and then, fiberglass....no wonder...;)

I think a fine pedestal helm would make her all the more sailable and quite handsome...and well worth a bit of sail altering.

BTW,...I could not agree more about the local deadrise builders...these guys are brilliant in their own right but, have a "particular perspective" that entails spending 4 out of 12 months in a yard anyway....in fact, it is just such a fellow who has done some advising to the previous owner on this boat. He is a reputable builder and acquaintance whose opinion I value but, as part of the whole, not "the whole".

[PAR]

I grew up in your area, just a little further up the bay and perfectly understand the local "mentality", which is well and good as they need it to be.

Take the set out of the teeth on a circular saw blade and you should be very close to what you need to open up the seams. If you bend up some stiff wire fingers, front and back on the foot of the saw, you can use these as a guide to keep the blade where you want it. Of course you can tack battens too.

You do realize that the goo in a tube you're suggesting is a silicone, not a polysulfide. Personally, I wouldn't use a silicone on anything other then windows. 2 part polysulfide from Boat Life or other manufacture would be my recommendation, with a single part as a second choice.

What adhesive were you going to use for the seam repairs?

[58ketch]

I had in mind using West system and micro-balloons...have you other preferences?

You know, you are right...that particular "goo" is a silicone and works wonderfully for teak decking but, may not be the best for what I am doing..I do absolutely LOATH Boat Life, though...in fact, I think i just got some on me talking about it...

I've not used a two part, however..only the tubed and canned.

As you can see from some of the pictures, the seams are already quite a bit wider than ideal. I was thinking ( and have used in the past) the blade of a Porter Cable 4.4" worm drive saw would be about "sweet" in the end...sound about right?

I am on my way to have this same discussion with my supply guy who is also a avid wooden boat restorer..it will be interesting to hear what he recommends as well...

[PAR]

Micro balloons and epoxy doesn't make a very good adhesive. A great fairing filler, but a lousy glue. If using epoxy, I'd use a 50/50 mixture of milled fibers and silica. Some would use Cab-o-sil or other all in one, but it's cheaper to mix your own. Wood flour and silica will work too.

Having thought about it, this is a good time for wedge seaming the old lass. The fasteners have to be sound as do the planks, but it will seal her up tight as a drum.

I have a few "custom" ground circular saw blades for this task. The blades have the teeth ground to a specific set of angles to make a V shaped groove. It restores the seam edges and shapes the seam all at the same time. You then either pound in wedges (of the same species as the planking) as raw stock or it's preferred to glue them in. When the glue cures, plane the wedges flush and call it a day.

I wouldn't rely on caulk, you need some edge set on those planks. Wedge seaming works well, so long as you don't have prolonged storage on shore, where she can really dry out badly, so it's not good for trailer sailors, but you'll be all right.

If using epoxy to glue them in, use staples to hold the wedges in place as the goo cures. If you pound on the wedges with epoxy, you'll starve the joint and have failures. All other adhesives like the idea of lots of joint pressure. This might be one of the places I'd actually try a PU adhesive and it's taste for moist lumber.

I'd also leave the tiller in the boat. There's nothing better then tiller steering when it comes to feel and feedback from the helm. A wheel will give you some cockpit space (to a degree), but you loose the "attachment" you have with the boat and will never sail it as well as with a tiller. Besides, with a tiller, you can just lift it out of the way, but a wheel is married to the cockpit sole, like it or not.

[58ketch]

After a pretty lengthy discussion with my goo dealer ( who is a longtime West fanatic..I am not, btw..) a new product (to me) has entered the equation for consideration...I would be curious to know what your thoughts are on "G-Flex"..the book on this has it being more flexible than epoxy and q-cells or cabosil yet a true "hardener" and even applicable in wet environments.
Sounds too good to be true...if it quacks like a duck..?

Now, I'm wondering...after the wedging would it not be best to barrier coat the hull as we have reduced the wicking severely?...or do you feel that the planks and keel themselves will suffice and not rot topside?

Having worked on these deadrises and similar for most of my life I must confess to at least a few prejudices...one of them would be not allowing for expansion by swelling. I have seen perfectly good planks cup and curl, popping their fasteners because of this. Obviously, I prefer not to have that happen....

While most of my personal experience is in traditional joinery, I have spent more than ample time in the last 40 years messing with hull construction and restoration, both power and sail.
That said, I know there are no absolutes, no "perfect fixes", no totally "permanent solutions"...only the wisdom of many people's experiences, a bit of luck, some common sense and good engineering....at best.;)

Oh, as for the tiller....I WILL sail her with the tiller before making a final decision but, having had and done both...I'm a "wheel guy". More than a few hours at a tiller can be exhausting in less than ideal weather...I have stories....

[PAR]

G-Flex is an option, though I'm not sure about it's qualities on damp lumber, which I'll assume yours is or will be during the repair. I've used G-Flex and liked it's elastic properties, but I don't know about the bond on fairly damp wood.

This is a tough call, to be honest. It's one of those deals where I want to be standing under her belly, before I make a decision.

No, a barrier coat on planking that looks at least 1" thick would be problematic at best. The rabbit and chine logs would still move, but the planks wouldn't, yep, a true brew for a mess if you ask me.

I still think the planks need some edge set and not a cushion of goo in a tube and little slivers of wood (wedges) floating in it.

It's the gaps that are killing me and of course the bond to wet wood. I'm pretty confidant about the PU adhesive in this application. But just taking a guess, you likely have in the neighborhood of 110 to 120 planks on the bottom (each side), each with an average seam width of say 3/32" or so. This is a total of a foot worth of gaps, if laid side by side under that boat on each side. That's a fairly substantial hole and I suspect way more then the lumber needs to swell and shrink into during haul outs or winter storage.

During previous winter layups, what did the previous owner notice as an average gap in the spring when he went to recommission? What was originally used in the seams?

I think the easy way out is to clean and dress the seams for a goo in a tube job. Apply your goo and see what happens. If you get lucky, well cool deal. If not, then you've probably bought her a season or two, before you have to get in there and put more effort into those seams.

Personally, I still thing the plank edges have work hardened from movement and are "crushed" back, opening the seams. A goo job probably will not fix this for very long, but if I'm wrong, then it saves you some effort.

If you're working at the tiller, it's not long enough, you've over sheeted or you haven't enough headsail drawing. Real men use tillers and shout Arrrrrrrr, for no apparent reason, from time to time.

[58ketch]

LOL.....I believe that is "ARRGGHHH"...:)

Well, THIS "real man" does many hours at the helm and has come to appreciate the wheel but, like I said....I'm give the tiller an honest effort first...;)

Let me clarify a couple of things...

1) I'm not looking for a jiffy fix...seems that has been done here a few times before me and the presence of a pile of Redhand tells me "not very well"...most of the cotton has been removed already and the planks that have been replaced show evidence of two different persons...one who used 5200 and a good snug fit and another who crowned the planks backwards and used a pile of goo in lieu of a good fit...wanna guess which planks need replacing?
2) The previous owner, I have recently discovered knows very little about this vessel and did none of the work..in fact, it appears he is responsible for her sinking and has never actually sailed her...the things we discover "post sale".....
3)As for "winter haul-outs"...not gonna happen. These babies were MEANT to be wet and wet she shall be. I have a slip available at my house where she can and will look beautiful while I address here above waterline issues so, right now, I am concentrating on making her float sans leaking as well as can be done within a "reasonable" time frame.

#1, more than anything, seems to speak to the value of as good fit and the best possible caulk/adhesive be it 5200, G-Flex or what have you.

Yesterday I water blasted the bottom up to the water line @2100 psi...concentrated on the seams and getting as mush debris as possible out plus removing some caulk and paint that hid a few other issues...well worth the afternoon and a gallon of petrol.

I will be draining her bilge of all remaining water today to allow her to dry out completely. I will take some updated photos with some closeups. Right now I would estimate that there are around 65 planks per side ranging from 4- 6' but, I will verify that today as well.

On a different note..it appears this old girl has a bronze keel. I would have bet on lead but, after blasting with H2O she appears to be bronze...imagine that...

As we speak, I am think a good edge-to edge fit with some type of spline...perhaps a wedge in the more open seams and just some fresh goo in those that appear more substantial. Thoughts?

[PAR]

Yep, I like the idea of wedges more and more, especially if she'll "stay in".

I can't tell you how much I dislike 5200 below the LWL.

Do a scratch test on that bronze keel, it doesn't sound right to be bronze, when an iron ballast would have a been a fraction of the price, at about the same weight.

The corners of the cabins on those old Dickersons where rot prone.

No, I meant Arrrrrrrrr, I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder.

[58ketch]

Yep, I would have thought iron as well but, "have been told" bronze or lead were what was generally used...note parenthesis..

Sounds like a magnet would eliminate one option...that and a lack of apparent rust. Lead ain't pink.

The topside of this boat has been glassed and not too shabby a job in most cases..portholes and hatch slides excepted..they were not removed for glassing....duh!

That said, the last owner DID replace the portholes with some very handsome Perko bronze ones indigenous of the era...very nice looking and makes correcting the glass job around the portholes much easier.

So, since you loath 5200 below waterline and we seem to be coming to a consensus as to the wedge splines..what adhesive/caulk WOULD you use?..West and Cabosil (or the likes) or the newer (and much more expensive) G-Flex..or..???

Btw,..I do much appreciate your input and time with me on this. There are not a lot of folks familiar with woodworking/boat repair at this level and opinions are like ...well, you know....

Bummer about the rotorcuff....major tendinitis here....aging ain't all its cracked up to be but, the alternative is much less attractive...

Any idea where I might be a set of plans for this boat?

[PAR]

An adhesive choice for the wedges would depend on the condition of the planking. If you can get the planking down to 15% moisture content then thickened epoxy would the choice and G-Flex is a good option (yep, it's expensive). I would call the West System folks and ask about moisture content on G-Flex, though I suspect it needs to be fairly dry too.

If you don't have the time to get the planking down to 15% (or less) moisture content, the Gorilla glue (or similar PU) is an option as it likes moisture for it's bond.

Plans, you're kidding right. You may have some luck with a Dickerson owner's group (dickersonowners.org). I'm not sure if it's a Tucker design or not, but the owner's site may help. In this regard the designer (or estate) may be of some help.

[58ketch]

Moisture, in this environment is ALWAYS a problem.

I have been thinking...uh oh...suppose I use square edged splines on freshly squared edges of the planks and use either Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue or Resocinol to install them , fit them "snugly" and plane/sand off the balance...it would not be as "squirrly" as wedges, would ensure a pretty good fit (I could put a very slight taper on them) and these glues have a bit more flexibility that West and cure hard in damp environments..especially the Plastic Resin Glue.

Not that West won't work but both of these are far less expensive and very reliable. I use then for bent on parts and laminating as well as structural frames. I have never used them below waterline but, I don't see why not..or am I overlooking something?

Yeah, I AM kinda "old school" like that....

Here's a peek at the bottom seams post blasting and some spiling:

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/011.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/010.jpg

I thought this detail at the bow was interesting...plywood ..

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/016.jpg

And here is the keel..definitely non-magnetic but,...??

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/005.jpg

[PAR]

Plastic resin or resorcinol would be the "traditional" choices. When I say wedge, don't think pie wedge shape, they are slightly tapered and slightly deeper then the groove. The idea is they can be hammered in as you go, which applies the pressure necessary to make these types of glues work well. Epoxy would prefer a square sided wedge, which really is just a seam repair or scab.

I don't think that plywood is original, do you? A plywood bottom (all of it) could solve many of your issues and make a stronger boat too, though this is a pretty big conversion.

Other then some odd repairs on a few of these, I've never had a real good look at these old file plankers from Dickerson. I don't remember doing any surveys on one either.

[58ketch]

I think we may have misunderstood one another. We may be talking about the same things.The splines I was referring to in the previous post would be in the neighborhood of 1/4" at their narrowest to around 5/16 at their widest and roughly 1 1/8" tall..the longest (midship) being around 5'. There are 39 planks on one side and 44 on the other with around 6 that need replacing completely.

I would NEVER replace my bottom with plywood...I'd glass the whole enchilada first and I don't see that happening. The way I see it, there is a reason she has lasted 50 years and no reason I cannot capitalize on her merits while correcting her deficiencies...I'll start with a solid seam repair and some refastening and replacing a few planks..if that doesn't do it, I'll barrier coat the entire bottom in a few more years and if THAT doesn't do it, I'll glass her down to the keel but, I think the more traditional procedure is most likely the most appropriate and, for this old carpenter/sailor, the most befitting my temperament....notoriously crotchety, temperamental and considerably more patient with "things" than people...

I am of the opinion that the plywood at the stem is original because of the offset in the chine to accommodate the difference. Had it been changed after the fact I would expect to see either an additional repair and fairing to make up the balance or several laminations. There is, instead, a very clean knotch in the chine and some of the original oakum. That makes me think it was original.

These old model bugeyes were Dickerson's first stab at a "production boat"..it was not long (the early 60's) that they moved to carvel planking and then, very quickly to fiberglass. They are so much like a Chesapeake deadrise or skipjack that . looking at the bottom alone, it fools many avid deadrise and skipjack aficionados....even the keel can be deceiving.

Perhaps, now you can understand why 5200 has been the choice of many for these boats? It offers two things...it is fully waterproof and, with fresh material to attach to, sticks like crazy. It does allow some movement and , since it is a PU water facilitates its curing. Not that I am attached to 5200 but, I Do see why it has been used previously and has held up so far.
I would consider any alternative including "wedging" but, realize that wedging will create a unified bottom and discourage any movement at all while that which keeps the boards as separate entities allows for natural shrinking and swelling as well as some movement.

Seems a quandary...unify or isolate..and with which goo?

I hate to say that I think we have come full circle but, I think we have...right back to the beginning BUT, with a better understanding of the parameters and available technologies. So, what say ye now...?;)

Oh, one more thought....I had mentioned before using cypress to replace some of the mahogany (because it is readil available and an excellent product below waterline). My thinking was that one day every board will want to be replaced..at some point..and I may as well get the process started with a less "exotic" and wallet friendly species..See? ,my intention is to keep her and sail her as a relic and reminder of her and my own heritage...just a funny sorta sentimental guy like that I 'spose...

[58ketch]

Yesterday we started pulling off the bad planks. What a surprise!...a crab had taken up residence in the bilge......I'm think this old girl was down more than someone is letting on.....

Anyway, with the planks removed we could see that some stringers needed attention..badly. ..and some repairs had been made already..badly.

Now the scope of the work is becoming more realistic..its not THAT bad. In fact the entire starboard side is in pretty good shape and with some tightening up..excellent. All of the bad wood is on the port side which is the weather side from where she was moored.

I think a decision has been made as to methodology...I am re-cutting any seam greater than 1/8" to around 3/8" and adding back a square edged spline to one side only which will allow an 1/8" of movement per plank. I will use some Slickseam or toilet bowl gasket wax on the remaining 1/8 to help out until the planks swell.
Previous work had been done..planks replaced... with 5200, They are in excellent shape but, are bug tight and just MAY have had something to do with some cupping in adjacent planks..along with their having been crowned backwards.

When I get some new photos I'll post the updates..

[58ketch]

Here's a hole where the old plank used to be...

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/007.jpg

after some seam ripping to 1/2"..

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/029.jpg

looking much better..

Here's "Junior" on the job with our very simple but, quite practical jig..

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/027.jpg

real progress..

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II%20log/001.jpg

[58ketch]

After much thought and a good bit of drying time I think we have come full circle. The seams have been opened up to make a good clean shoulder..1/2" is now a consistent spacing.
We are considering using 4200 as a seam seal with our plank replacements.However, the previous repairs had been made with 5200 and considering the excellent condition of those repairs (generally) we are loath to ignore that which "works".
On the other hand, the splines (wedges) will be installed with either System 3 Gel Magic or West G-Flex as the edges are new, fresh and quite dry.
Any other thoughts before we get real into this?:?:

[PAR]

There is very little difference between 5200 and 4200 chemically. Both will offer some "expansion" room. Expect a few weeks for a full cure.

[58ketch]

I know how you feel about 5200 and I would rather guess that the same could be said for your feelings about 4200 ..just about 1/2 as loathing...

How you feel about Sika Flex 291 or its ilk?..any love for the Sika line?

[PAR]

4200 is a fair bit easier to remove then 5200. The Sika products suffer from the same issues as the 3M offerings do.

[58ketch]

Our project has now been on the hard for around 8 weeks. I have dried her out pretty well and most planks seem to be exactly where I'd like them...dry enough to take adhesives but, not brittle. We know this to be a time-sensitive issue and the move from "just right" to "bone dry and brittle" may be only a couple weeks difference so, we're moving quickly now.
We've taken a slightly different approach to this repair than typical. After opening her up I found some work worn members at the chine and some frames that had previously been sistered..an not well at all.
That said, I have turned my focus to making the bottom as unified as possible knowing that the next evolution should this not be as successful as I am hoping, will be to watertight the entire bottom.
I have 5200'd the new planks to one another and to the chine, keel and garboard but, will use G-Flex for my splines which are 1/2" and will carry a onesided taper of around 3 degrees.
There will be some small voids I imagine that will have to be filled. I am thinking a good polysulfide like Life Caulk for this...or should it be even more organic like oakum?
I will be using some oakum in the transom and along the chine. Any suggestions there?
New pics coming soon...

[frank smith]

Nice boat , I would not use modern sticky stuff on it . Why not just caulk her up the way it is ? You said that it would hold water .
has it been out of the water for a while? Might just need to swell up.

[58ketch]

Too late for "just caulk her up the way she was"...too much damage and far too many repairs ...not to mention some extremely work worn planks. Besides, this IS the 21st century and I can assure you that had the builders at Dickerson had modern "sticky stuff" in 1958 they would have used it PROFUSELY.
The object of this "restoration" is to restore the integrity of the design, not the very simple construction and relatively primitive means...we want a better boat than what was originally built but, with the lines of the original..so far, so good.
New pics forthcoming....
BTW,...after this project I may be tempted to build a sistership but, with modern means from the start..still wooden, though.

[frank smith]

I see you are moving right along . Its nice to see pictures along the way .
If you wouldn't mind could you post a picture or two of the whole boat .

[58ketch]

Surely..I'd be happy to....

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II/017.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II/044.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II/043.jpg

[frank smith]

Thanks for the pics . How is the progress going ?
Regards Frank

[58ketch]

Sorry for the delay in response but, the weather has been less than cooperative..here are a few pics prior to barrier coating. More of the pre-anti-fouling variety to come soon...


here we have stripped the old planks and repaired, filled and refastened the old ones..
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II/001.jpg

a detail of two different types of repairs..notuice the splines in the work worn joints...
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II/003-1.jpg

a shot of the splines pre-repair, filling
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II/005-1.jpg


dark but, this is the after the first coat of 4 pre-barrier-repair coatings with West G-Flex and Cabosil
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/wbpope/Maaken%20II/007-1.jpg

The end result, after 4 coats of West and barrier on the bottom and to the water line only (not the keel) should give us a fairly well protected interior with greatly improved planking and the added advantage of a slightly wet and pickled interior from keel wicking and "incidental" seepage.

We'll be bottom painting this weekend and hoping to get wet soon...the proof will be in the splash.