Fiberglass Rhodes Bantam repair

[dave45056]

Hello all!
I am new to the forum and new to fiberglass repair as well.
I am working on a Rhodes Bantam. This is a 14 foot sailing dinghy from Philip Rhodes.

The previous owner had bought it as a project and I am taking it over. I did this because the previous owner had told me that he had completed the fiberglass repair and that all that was left was the woodwork on top. Since the boat was stored outdoors for several years and the price was exceptionally low, I took him at his word. After cleaning up the boat it became clear that he had actually just started the fiberglass repair. Basically he put filler in areas on the outside of the hull where the gelcoat had blistered. He put it in plenty high of the surface which has made my sanding job quite lengthy, but I am almost done.

My question is how to proceed from here. I had though about coating the entire bottom with resin, then priming and painting. At that point the boat would be ready for the woodwork on the topside (which I am really looking forward to as this is my specialty and why I bought the boat). I have done a fair amount or research which has basically added confusion to my straight forward plan. I have no idea what kind of fiberglass, resin, filler is in this boat... or if my plan is a good one. The fiberglass does not appear to have any structural damage and looks perfect on the inside.

Any advice?
Thanks in advance,
-Dave

[alan white]

Sounds like you've got it under control. No matter which resin was used (and polyester is certainly what was used), the fairing and sealing is a job for epoxy, which sticks to any glass hull.
I use West System's 105 resin with 206 hardener (Maine summer) and I use Microlight fairing compound for non-structural fairing. It feathers beautifully and stretches epoxy to three-fold at least. When the repairs are faired, a thick coating of pure epoxy (in one to three coats depending on position/gravity).
The balance of the underbody need not be coated if the boat is going to be dry-sailed. It would be a waste of time and money to do so. Only boats that sit in water continuously would benefit from an epoxy coating on the bottom----- but if you are going to need to coat the bottom, do use epoxy in any case.
One thing you may not know is that gelcoat often holds wax from the molding process for years. The wax is anathema to good bonds, so before sanding any untouched areas (sanding drives the wax INTO the surface), clean it well with acetone. Then sand, and sand you must to get a mechanical bond of epoxy to polyester.

Alan

[dave45056]

Thanks for the quick reply. I had not thought of the wax factor. I'll be sure to clean the surface as you mentioned. The PO also had some products which he was using. Among them was Interlux brushing compound. DO you know what this is for?
Also, I am originally from Maine... South Portland to be exact. And I was there just a couple days ago.

[alan white]

I think you mean brushing liquid, which is formulated to thin and extend working time using Interlux paint----- check to make sure its for "Brightside" enamal (single part paint), and not a brushing thinner for two part--- just go to their site.
You don't necessarily need brushing thinner. It is useful if it's hot or dry, or when painting a large flat surface face up to let the paint settle out well before drying (a deck, for example) but generally, the paint will go on fine under normal conditions. Try it out and see how you like it. Use Brightside enamal to get a good chemical match.
Two coats should do over one or two primer coats. Remember to sand between each coat with 220 grit (wet-dry is good). If using a thinner, sand the last time with 320, as the paint has less body to hide sanding scratches.

A.