Wooden Boat Renovation Forum

[Doctor Dave]

Would it be possible to start another forum, primarily for renovation of the old woodies out here? Sure would like to talk with someone in the same situation as me. (Wondering if I've done something screwy)

Thanks

[Jeff]

If a few other people would also be interested in a new wooden boat forum here as well, please reply to this thread and I'll add it as soon as 3 or 4 people are interested in the idea.

In the meantime, you are most welcome to post in the boatbuilding and other forums, and you might also take a look at WoodenBoat magazine's excellent forum at http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

(but make sure you come back here too :D)

And we want to see some pictures as your project moves along!

[gonzo]

I think it is a good idea. It would narrow the focus of the discussion.

[edneu]

I would be very interested in a wooden boat restoration forum as well. I often use non-traditional techniques for wooden boat repairs, some are better some are worse than the traditional repair method. I would love to hear about wooden boat restoration methods and syles. The forum may also provide a valuable resource to someone restoring a wooden boat and my offer the needed encouragement and support someone may require to undertake such a project.

[Mike H]

I would also like to se a wooden boat restoration forum, count me in

[Jeff]

Wooden Boat Restoration Forum created as ordered...

The difficult part of creating a new forum is getting it established, so I hope you guys will feel free to post here and maybe post some tips and tricks, or some ideas about a project to get this new forum started...

I am excited to see this forum develop, and thanks for any and all ideas in advance :)

[duluthboats]

:cool: :D
Great addition, look out WB.

Gary :D

[Jeff]

> Great addition, look out WB.

At the current level, it looks like we have a little way to go...

But hopefully this forum will become more lively soon :)

I think it was a good idea. Now we just have to get it started.

Everyone with a great wooden boat rennovation project is welcome to post here too (...please...)

[Guest]

Not much activity on this Wooden Boat Renovation forum. I will be starting construction of a wooden powerboat of classic lines from the early 1900's fairly soon and would appreciate some advice. The boat will be about 5' wide and 20 1/2' long. The bow will be almost plumb, the cambered foredeck about 8 1/2' long, vertical windshield, 8' long cockpit with awning cover, and 4' long cambered aft deck concealing a 4 cycle outboard in a well at the stern. The sheer will sweep upward toward the bow, slight bow flare and pronounced tumblehome aft. The underbody will have a deep, sharp forefoot then gradually flatten to a shallow V at the transom.

I am strictly an amateur, but have done some design study and have designed and built five previous boats. What I think will be appealing about this boat is its classic-appearing rounded sweeping curves all achieved in a completely developable hull shape.

I am just finishing drawing out full-size patterns for the frames (13). So next I need to start looking for appropriate wood. Budget is a factor. I am thinking of using Douglas fir for the frames, keel, sheer, chine (not evident in the fore sections); then using a double layer of 1/4" plywood to sheath it. Inner layer of plywood may be fir; outer will be the nice imported stuff which I will have to get shipped in. Should be strong, fairly light and dimensionally stable.

Does this all make sense? Is there a better wood for the frames that woudn't cost too much more?

[bud]

this is cool.... i am planing on melding a wooden top deck to an older clasic glass hull and adding new power in the process...shes a 20' 59 SKAGIT semi displacement hull made in LaConnor Washington with same vintage volvo penta AQ100 motor and leg .although designed as a small cruiser i plan on striping the top and converting to a runabout. if anyones interested i could post pics of before and after and could also use all the help and ideas i can get....
regards Marc
PS .... does anyone know of a museum that might want an original running 59/60 volvo penta AQ100 I/O assembly, also have a pair of electric worm screw type trim tabs ..... ya never know

[gonzo]

Guest:
It does make sense. Is it a round hull as an early 1900's or a more modern chine hull? Also, the horsepower will determine whether the scantling are adequate or not. 1/2'' should be OK for a displacement hull.

[Guest]

Thanks, Gonzo
Aft the hull will have a hard chine; at the bow there will be no evident chine for the first 4-5 feet then it becomes gradually more prominent. Your mention of HP is a good point. I don't want to power it short of usable potential, but also don't want to overpower it. I live at 7500 foot elevation. I am told that larger engines are needed at such altitudes due to the reduced efficiency of combustion. I am thinking about 25 HP. I want a short shaft to make it easy to enclose the engine in a well. Only the smaller engines come with the short shaft.

Displacement speed only is too slow for me, but I also don't want to go so fast that a wind blasts against the awning. I want a hull that glides at low speeds, not pushing a wall of water. Fifteen MPH max. would be okay; more would be great, but I am willing to experiment, and understand disappointment is possible. It seems that design criteria for semi-displacement or semi-planing hulls is not so readily available, which may be one of the attractions to me for trying such a design. That plus esthetics; I just like the looks of the old boats more than the new generic fiberglass hulls.

[gonzo]

One very important thing for a motor in a well is ventilation. I've seen motors die, specially at idle, because the exhaust gases stay in the well area. I like the combination of round sections forward changing to a chine aft. It works well at medium speeds. In a resistance graph it shows a knuckle, that is resistance increases fast then almost plateaus and after increases again. There is an economy area faster than hull speed. To my knowledge it only works in very skinny hulls like kayaks or what you are designing. I assume that the WL beam will be maybe 4' or so.

[Wayne Grabow]

gonzo:
I understand that the L/B ratio should be at least 5/1 to achieve a high speed-to-length ratio with limited power. I'm not going to make that ratio. I want this boat to seat two people comfortably side by side and be short enough to fit into a garage. That dictates my dimensions: waterline width of 4 3/4 feet and waterline length of about 20 feet. Again, this is an experiment, and I understand that I may not achieve my design goals. Although, I have read of several similar designs which achieved claimed speeds of 15-17 knots. The classic look is critical. The performance I am willing to gamble on. A developable design should allow the hull to be strong yet light. Power will come from a relatively light engine. The fun here is to try to balance (find the right compromise) displacement performance vs. planing potential.

[gonzo]

Can you increase the HP? There are bigger engines with a 15" shaft.

[Wayne Grabow]

I think you are right. I'll look at larger engines. If I remember correctly, as much as 40HP may be available with a 15 inch shaft. And the hull dimensions can accomodate it with careful fitting. I am building a 1/5 scale structural moclel this weekend. Takes time, but for a one-off original design, the time spent on the model will pay for itself. Nice to be able to really visualize the shape and structure.

[gonzo]

We sell 50HP engines with 15" shaft. I'm sure you can get them locally.

[monty]

AS A NEW MEMBER I WOULD LOVE TO BE ABLE TO TALK TO JUST "WOODIES" AS IM JUST ABOUT TO START RENOVATING A 50 FOOT FISHING TRAWLER TO A LIVEABOARD CRUISER AND NEED ALL THE HELP AND ENCOURAGEMENT I CAN GET.

[SailDesign]

monty, you're a snob! But a well-meaning, right-spirited kind of snob, to be sure..... ;-)

[Guest]

need to get some suggestions as to how to start repairing a leak. The problem seems to be in the centerboard. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can start to look at this project.

Thanks, Ben Beall

[Doug K]

Would it be possible to start another forum, primarily for renovation of the old woodies out here? Sure would like to talk with someone in the same situation as me. (Wondering if I've done something screwy)

Thanks

Finally found a body of like minded individuals with the same affliction...old wood boats.

I would applaud the forum with the focused interest of information on wooden boat reconstruction et al. This response may be somewhat dated to the initial Doctor Dave posting but this is my two cents.

Thanks
DK

[Kurt J Schuch]

Wow this stuff is so interesting. I think I have the ultimate green status. I have never rebuild a wood boat let alone 5 of them. Cripes!!!! You guy are a bit intimidating. All I want to to do is the right thing to keep my 67 dump boat (thats what it says on the registration) from turning in to a rotten pile of dust. The old girl take on a lot of water and it is time to do some thing about it. Filling the hull with water at the begining of the season like my grandpa told me to do before he gave it to me just is'nt working any more. It has I dont know how many coats of white paint on it. It may sound lazy but everybody sanding sucks. mabe I should just get over it and face it. Looks like my idea of some kind of resin coating is bad cause of the moisture factor. I appreciate your time very much.
Kurt
Green Bay WI

[Kyle]

I am also in the process of a major restoration. I would love to have other opininions, and even a little encouragement from time to time. Sign me up for a wooden boat restoration forum.

Kyle :) Where do I find the cool smiley faces?

[prcmike]

Hi guys ...its the oriental connection. Well I bought the fishing hull I mentioned earlier. Now I need to figure out where to start. I want to pull her out of the water remove all the exterior paint then sheath in fibreglass to give her a fairer appearance. Once out of the wter is there a problem connected to the amount of time she is dry? How long should I wait for timber to dry before starting work?What weight of glass fiber can you suggest? I may have bitten off more than I can chew here. :confused: :o :mad: There are two attached photos

[Ed Harrow]

Mike, fiberglassing planked wooden hulls is generally looked upon with disfavor. Wood moves, the glass doesn't, so it tends to crack, allowing water to get into the wood, but not get out. The boat tends to rot from the inside out. Now that said, there is a guy, Allan Vatais (IIRC, or something close to that) who has written a book on this very process. It may be out of print, but you could try www.abe.com. Allan has also written a book on lofting. Try to find that (to get the spelling), or perhaps another here will know the exact spelling of Allan's last name. I don't know the title of the book.

[prcmike]

Thanks Ed,

I have received the same advice from many people and it makes logical sense so the hull will stay as is. The paint will be stripped the planks faired as much as posible and new coats of paint applied. Which brings me to the next question .....is it OK to use epoxy paint or will the same "inflexible" result occur. If not epoxy what do you suggest??

Thanks in advance

Mike

[Ed Harrow]

Believe it or not, I know more than a few people who use latex paint... Now, they're not after a "Bristol Finish", of course. Might work for you, topside. You'll still need an antifouling below the waterline, of course.

Sounds like quite the project and location.

[Guest20100203]

It's good advise to not sheath a wooden hull.

The best paint you can put on the hull is the two part linear polyurethanes, followed by the the one part polys (modified enamel) then the epoxies, enamels and lastly latex.

Two part polys are very difficult to do well and quite nasty to live with during application, should be left to the pro's. The one part polys are very good and easier to apply. Epoxies aren't as the name suggests, but rather flexable and good paints. Enamels have been the selection for many generations and have served quite well. Latex is the cheapest way to go and I've used it on work boats and class B yachts. Latex lasts about as long as enamels, needing renewal every few years, but doesn't keep the water out near as well as the other paints. If using it, buy the best you can (about the same as a reasonable grade of enamel) and do good prep.

Painting is 90% prep.

Bottom paint has it's categories as well. Modified epoxy (use for long wet cycles), copolymer ablative (not good in high fouling areas and infrequent use), thin films with teflon (not very long lived, but slippery), vinyl (can be burnished, compatablity issues with other paints) and sloughing (not the smoothest finish, but typical on wooden and commercial boats)

[Dr. J]

Bud, you should contact the Brittania Heritage Shipyard in Richmond. Try speaking to Phil, He is a real nice fellow and I am sure that he would be happy to take your stuff if it is donated. It is a really cool place with a working marine ways, displays, and ongoing restoration projects conducted primarily by volunteers. They are in the process of restoring the last gillnetter built in that very same yard ! It is a great way to spend a few hours. If you require any advice with your project,feel free to e-mail me. Good luck with your project.

[oldchris]

I am just starting on the restoration of a 24ft loa keel boat designed and built in Essex UK in 1949 the year I started my apprenticeship. She is pitch pine on oak, carvel with long flush deck and cockpit aft. If this topic is of interest I would be happy to tell the story as it goes along. New mast and return to yawl rig. New decks. Possible removal of garboards to get at the hog pieces. Original petrol 6hp to be replaced by electric propulsion being actively pursued as a diesel plonker is out of keeping. Will sail on the Solent and neighbouring Dorset waters. I wonder....

[J Ralph]

ok,Im getting ready to west system my 47ft robert rich white ceader on oak frame dragger.A buddy of mine just got done doing his over and it came out fantastic.He has a 40ft wood dragger..he sand blasted the whole hull,cleaned out all the seams,filled them in with cabosil.He used bi-axle mat and I don't know how many gallons of west system(at least 60-70 gallons).I think the part thats most amazing is the paint job.He used some kind of epoxy primer and I don't know what for a top coat,but his steel doors that spread the net hang fron the steel dragging frame and lay against the hull and scrape and bang against the hull and it has only scrached the paint.I think the hardest part will be glassing around the sternpost and reattaching the outside cutlass bearing,and the glassing around the keel.will try to post some pictures .....before,during and after(will have to have my 13 year old do that)Any ideas and advice will be greatly appreciated

[Mike H]

Hello, Just saw your post, are you still doing the project? How are you douing?I have a yard up in Cumbria .

[J Ralph]

hi yes I am still planning on doing the work.I hope to start in april when our fishing season shuts down for a couple of months.The plan is to haul out april 1 and sand blast the whole hull,and let it dry out for about a month,and then start.When I hauled out this summer I west systemed the rails,foredeck,and the sides in the stern where the dragging doors rest against the hull.I also extended the wheelhouse,added 5new windows,and west systemed the outside wheelhouse cabin.will try to post some before/after pictures of what I have done so far.So...what type of boats and or work do you do in your boatyard in Cumbria?

[harlow]

I have just aquired a 14' plywood type boat.
The Manufacture name is Carter Craft - Sea Lark from panama city
It is an outbourd, i believe it is from 57-62 Im not shure. It has a cadillac type fin on the back also.I can not find out any information on this boat. I am considering restoring it. Does anyone have any information about this boat.

[oldchris]

Hi Mike, yes the project is going along quite well. When originally acquired I had some concern that the keel proper might have to be cut out and replaced, however after trial boring in three worst spots Im satisfied that the apparent softness is confined to the outer 1/2" or so and can be dealt with by surface cutting back and fitting gravers well bedded and fastened.

Keel bolts will have to be renewed however and that is the next target job.

Have gone well down the road of enquiry and am climbingthe learning curve for replacing the original Vire petrol auxiliary with electric drive coupled to 4x12v 100ah batteries paired in parrllel to give 24 volt then tapped in series to the motor controlls. The whole lot then being trickle charged by a wind turbine. I originally thought solar panels would do the job but am getting strong vibes that low amp inputs are not good for battery life.

Have you or anyone else got any experiance of this.

Although the boat is only 24' oa,with a bowsprit she will reach 27'loa and cutter rigged. Presntly all bdn but am considering gaff with a high peaked setting.

In board despite having batteries for propulsion and nav lights I will use traditional oil lamps and meth stove for the galley.

Quite a bit more to do but nothing daunted! By the way I'm a shipwright by trade with a long time in ship repair management. So this is a retirement project. The boat was completed the year I started my apprenticeship - 1949!!!!! One of your original wood borers.Rgds Chris M

[jeff goldberg]

I have a 1960 White. This is a lapstrake wooden boat.It leaks like a siv.I have tried cleaning out all the seams below water and filling them with 5200. That worked for a short time.I reliaze this boat is to have some water in it but it has gotten out of control.I want to west system the bottom.It is a twenty foot boat so turning it over is pretty much out of the question.I have seen a couple of boats simular to mine that have been west systemed and it seem to work well for them.I am lookin for suggestions ,opinions and first hand experience.I have used the west system and have full confidence in it.I have done small repairs on the boat with great results.But doing the bottom up to just past the waterline is another thing entirely.One of my greatest concerns is the flexing of the boat. And if if I get a great bond to the wood do you think the west system will flex with the boat and stay laminated or do you think it will just come undone the first time Im in rough seas .I look forward to your input.

Happy wooden boat owner. Jeff Goldberg

[jeff goldberg]

I have a 1960 White. This is a lapstrake wooden boat.It leaks like a siv.I have tried cleaning out all the seams below water and filling them with 5200. That worked for a short time.I reliaze this boat is to have some water in it but it has gotten out of control.I want to west system the bottom.It is a twenty foot boat so turning it over is pretty much out of the question.I have seen a couple of boats simular to mine that have been west systemed and it seem to work well for them.I am lookin for suggestions ,opinions and first hand experience.I have used the west system and have full confidence in it.I have done small repairs on the boat with great results.But doing the bottom up to just past the waterline is another thing entirely.One of my greatest concerns is the flexing of the boat. And if if I get a great bond to the wood do you think the west system will flex with the boat and stay laminated or do you think it will just come undone the first time Im in rough seas .I look forward to your input.

Happy wooden boat owner. Jeff Goldberg

[Baldur]

What!, There are other boats besides WOOD! :eek:
I refuse to acknowledge that....

[jeff goldberg]

I was looking for a little more info than that. Here is a follow up from another thread.
Well I dont know how many guys you had but I think it would take allot of guys to turn over this boat.And to get it done without damaging the boat I just cant imagine.The wood in this boat is in very good condition so I don't beleive that any thing needs to be replaced.The refastening sounds like it may be the answer but that in itself seems like a huge job as the seats and the floor would have to be taken out.I don't have a clue on how to do the refastening.The strakes are held together by a small copper nail that is bent over on the inside.The ribs are attached to the strakes buy screws.Are you suggesting to refasten inbetween the ribs and what about the areas you cant reach due to the stringers.The more i think about this the more I like the idea of west system with glass matting.I really feel that if the boat is prepped right the matting will hold.I have heard your views on the horrors of glassing and having it be a nightmare.The reason I feel so stongly about the glassing is I have done repairs with the west system on this boat and it has held to this day.When I first bought this boat and put it in the water several of the seams where one strake ended and a new one began going from front to back the glue failed and these seams opened resulting in the water tearing several big holes in the bottom.Needless to say we almost sunk.I made repairs and as I said they have held to this day.Yes I am very concerned with the lamination on the hard edge of the strake.Well that was a mouth full.I look forward to your additional input.

[mmd]

Jeff, go to www.woodenboat.com and enter the Forum section. Go to the build & repair section and find the FAQ thread. Read. Think. Then ask questions. There's lots of people there with experience repairing lapstrake boats who are willing to help. Even solutions for rolling 20-foot boats over without damage.

[JMark]

Just spent 3 1/2 years restoring a 57' Chriscraft.....what would you like to know?! Presently nearing the end of the journey. Am looking for information concerning Sanitread.
Mark

[jeff goldberg]

That link didn't bring me to a site where I could find forum information?

[Seoladair]

Jeff the link http://www.woodenboat.com/ will bring you to the magazine's home page, then on the right hand side buttons list, click on WB Online Forum ...then find the build and repair forum and look for the FAQ suggested above....if you wish to.

Cheers

[wdnboatbuilder]

how much hog is designed in the boat another words is the keelson a straight line or does it have a curve to it?

[chandler]

Jeff,
I think an important part of the task you want to perform is 1. the boat needs to dry out, 2. apply at least 2 coats of epoxy on the inside. If you just epoxy and glass[were you going to glass?]The outside and leave the interior bare or painted you'll be wasting your time and money, especially on a workboat that sees alot of water in the bilges. she'll just rot from the inside out.

[jeff goldberg]

Where is the best place to go and talk about sistering some broken ribs on my wooden boat?

[chandler]

Are you talking about finding someone to do the work or finding the imformation to do the work yourself? Woodenboat magazine has been running an excellent series on renovation, covering everything from the keel up. Sistering is not necessarily the best approach, replacing is a much better idea.
If you're looking for someone to do the work there's more wooden boat builders and repairers in Maine than I would bet per capita than anywhere in the world.

[jeff goldberg]

This is a 1963 WHITE 20' wooden lapstrake I am looking for folks input on how I should aproach this repair.I would like to do it myself depending on what it entails.If I am in over my head after getting all the info I need to make the decision weather to attempt to do this job myself or start saving my pennies to have someone else do it.Hears the story.I noticed the boat was leaking pretty good. I removed the flooring to find eight ribs broken on the port side of the boat right where the bend in the rib is the strongest.These ribs are about mid ship.The ribs are about an inch wide and five eights thick running from under the gunwale to the otherside of the hull.These ribs are about six inches apart from each other and go under the floor supports.The questions I have are as follows.Would I need to steam these new ribs to install them.Should I take the floor framework up to replace these ribs or do I work around the floor frames?As I said the only hard bend in these ribs is at the point just where it passes under the floor frame and heads towards the center of the boat.It woul be a big job to take all the floor frame work up.My concern with steaming and useing a form is that most of the rib is pretty straight except for the sharp bend where the side of the boat meets the bottom.I invision running sisters right between the old broken ribs.Then refastening the new sistered ribs to the strong part of the strake.Don't get me wrong I love this boat and it is still quite pretty to look at but it's not a one of a kind and I would never expect to get out of it what I have into it.So with that in mind I am looking for a way to repair this craft that will be strong but not to concerned about keeping it original.Thanks in advance.

[jeff goldberg]

This is a 1963 WHITE 20' wooden lapstrake I am looking for folks input on how I should aproach this repair.I would like to do it myself depending on what it entails.If I am in over my head after getting all the info I need to make the decision weather to attempt to do this job myself or start saving my pennies to have someone else do it.Hears the story.I noticed the boat was leaking pretty good. I removed the flooring to find eight ribs broken on the port side of the boat right where the bend in the rib is the strongest.These ribs are about mid ship.The ribs are about an inch wide and five eights thick running from under the gunwale to the otherside of the hull.These ribs are about six inches apart from each other and go under the floor supports.The questions I have are as follows.Would I need to steam these new ribs to install them.Should I take the floor framework up to replace these ribs or do I work around the floor frames?As I said the only hard bend in these ribs is at the point just where it passes under the floor frame and heads towards the center of the boat.It woul be a big job to take all the floor frame work up.My concern with steaming and useing a form is that most of the rib is pretty straight except for the sharp bend where the side of the boat meets the bottom.I invision running sisters right between the old broken ribs.Then refastening the new sistered ribs to the strong part of the strake.Don't get me wrong I love this boat and it is still quite pretty to look at but it's not a one of a kind and I would never expect to get out of it what I have into it.So with that in mind I am looking for a way to repair this craft that will be strong but not to concerned about keeping it original.Thanks in advance

[gonzo]

To start with, you need to return the hull to its original shape. It usually helps to make a cut at the break in the frames. Then , depending on the hull shape construction, use molds or props to push or pull it in. Once you have this done, it is time to steam the sisters in. However, this assumes the planks are in good enough condition to take the fasteners.

[jeff goldberg]

Question:Say you have a board the thikness of one and a eigth inches by say six inches.Would it be ok to rip the ribs by taking them from the edge of the board.Say 1 1/8 by 1/2 inch which happens to be the thickness of the ribs needing to be replaced.My guess is it shouldn't matter as long as the grain is followed.The other option would be to rip the board to the 1/2 inch thick and then make your 1 1/8 ribs out of that.I'm just wondering if there is any difference in strength , bending and steaming milling the ribs one way or the other.I hope my description of what I am asking is clear enough.I really want to save this old girl and I'm just trying to get as much info as possible befor I take the mighty jump.I have built small houses and additions on my house but when you get into this intracate kind of work I get a little scared.Look forward to anyones input.Also is white oak the stuff to use these days to make these ribs out of?The original is red oak I beleive. This boat lives in salt water.

[gonzo]

Bending oak is green. Dry wood doesn't steam well and will probably crack. If the wood is dry, you can submerge it in water for a couple of weeks and it will help. The grain of the wood should be as straight as possible. It doesn't matter which way it lays.

[Ari]

I'am planning to built a wooden sailing yacht. LOA 150 feet , LOD 120,Beam 30 feet.My friends suggested that instead of building a new boat I should buy a used cargo boat of that dimension and refurbish it into yacht standard. There is quiet alot of boats of smaller size up for sale.Those cargo boats are design for carrying goods, they are not as refine as purposely built pleasure craft,but if I can save lots of dollars by doing it that way ..not bad eh.. any suggestion ..?

[Daniel Dorman]

Hi ther.I am just new to this forum stuff so excuse if i screw up.
I am about to start the re build of a 1920 Duch design sailing side trawler.she is 50'.
does anyone have any cheap sugestions for stoping the seams? Its a big boat to put in lisead putty.....

[d&dshipwrites]

If you havent already bought a used boat I would suggest being careful as I have seen used boat become as expensive as building new. Keep a close eye out. Now after "Katrina" there are alot of boats selling for cheap on what I call the black market of boats. Some insurance companies would rather replace a boat than fix it leaving the owner with a piece of junk he can't get rid of. Keep an eye out on other forums and for sale sites on the internet. Call around to a few yacht brockers and see what they have that they aren't advertising. Good luck. Personally I enjoy building from scratch. I get what I want or in my case what the customer wants.

If you are referring to joint compounds in a hull that old be carefull. The wood still has alot of life in it at that age however has dried alot of its natural oils and putties and compounds could be detrimental. Be careful to how close to the waterline you get as it will soak water and swell therefore pushing out the compounds and leaving bigger leaks. Try using marine type cauking cotton that is treated. Typically used on boats from this era to begin with. Go to your local marine supply and they will direct you. I think you'll find the same price for whichever method you choose.

[mark wallace]

yes i need such a forum---1962 herreshoff-h-28 skiff

[Gypsie]

Great idea, count me in

[ferdi darley]

Update on Rutheans restoration.
She is a 54' huon pine yawl, designed by Lawrent Gilles in 1947.
She is being restored by F.J.Darley, a shipwright apprenticed in england.
and his wife Wendy.
Currently all steamed ribbs and frames have been replaced and the hull is 3/4 refastened.
Horn timber is being replaced and section of beam shelf.
New huon pine planking has just arrived.
Lots to go, will show photoes when I can figure out how to.

[huffandpuff]

I have just aquired a 14' plywood type boat.
The Manufacture name is Carter Craft - Sea Lark from panama city
It is an outbourd, i believe it is from 57-62 Im not shure. It has a cadillac type fin on the back also.I can not find out any information on this boat. I am considering restoring it. Does anyone have any information about this boat.
In 1957, my father hand-built a plywood boat modeled after a Carter Craft Sea Lark. It has a 35 HP Johnson motor, electric start, with metal gas can. All in good condition. Trailer included. Just out of curiosity, what did you pay for your Sea Lark?