Power Nailing Strip Plank

[baydreamer]

Hello all!
Has anyone used a power nailer for strip planking? My search on the web has not found a source for marine grade ring shank nails made for power nailers.
I'm assuming that the material must be silicon bronze or bronze. I believe a finish nailer would work well using 16 gauge nails on 3/4" plank.
Thanks in advance for your advice.

baydreamer-New member in New Jersey, USA

[timgoz]

Baydreamer,

Personally, I would avoid both power nailers (nailgun) & screwdrivers. It is important to "feel" the fastener properly seat. Any suspect spots not readily discernible to the eye can offten be detected by the feel of hammering/ screwing the fastener. Plus the exact desired pressure or torque can be applied with a practiced hand.

Nice to have you on the forum. I am also new here.

Take care.

TGoz

[baydreamer]

Timgoz,
Thanks for the response. I'm starting a Stevenson 'Vacationer', a plywood hulled gaff sloop, but would prefer a nicely faired strip plank boat if it was not so time consuming to build.

[timgoz]

That is a nice design from what I have seen on thier site. Being able to beach her in suitable places will be a great advantage, especially whith a boat that is to small to carry a dinghy or not inclined to tow one.

TGoz

[Bentwood]

Baydreamer: you can power nail strip planks with polymer nails made by Raptor (www.raptornails.com). The advantage is that they don't rust or rot, and they can easily be sawn or sanded.

[baydreamer]

Bentwood,
Many thanks! I've E-mailed the company. If I can use the Porter Cable FN250 gun I have, it will worth considering construction of a different boat design. If I would have to buy a new $500-$700 gun I'll stay with the current plan to build a plywood boat.
Have you any boatbuilding experience with polymer fasteners?

[baydreamer]

That is a nice design from what I have seen on thier site. Being able to beach her in suitable places will be a great advantage, especially whith a boat that is to small to carry a dinghy or not inclined to tow one.

TGoz

It's a design from the 80's, innovative for the times, I guess. Since no false framing or strongback is needed, time and money is saved there. The design is popular on bays and inland waters where it can be beached. I like th skipjack look.

[timgoz]

baydreamer,

Though these polymer nails sound like a good idea, they are, I assume, a relatively new one. Serious questions as to thier longterm ability to hold a boat, with all it's inherent stresses, together, would have to be addressed. I did look over the web site for Raptor nails. Though they state "marine" as one of the applicable applications I would want to know if they had done long-term tests (as in At Least several years) with them being used for actual hull construction of a boat that was then subjected to everyday use in a marine inviroment. It would be horrible to find your boat litterally "coming apart at the seams" after 4-5 years!

I would stick to good old fashioned, well proven, bronze ring nails myself. Of course I tend toward the traditionalist side of the eqaution.

You have a good holiday baydreamer.

TGoz

[Bentwood]

Baydreamer: there is a lot of collective experience using polymer nails in this application. I have used it only on my own boat. The bottom line is that these nails work well in combination with epoxy in strip planking, with the epoxy doing most of the bonding work once it is cured. The nails seem to work best to hold the strips and laminates in place while the glue sets-up. Nailed laminates seem a little stronger than un-nailed laminates when cured, but I have not done any serious testing. Nails and laminates can be faired with the same cutters and sanders. Other strip plank designs that do not depend on epoxy for strength would probably need stronger nails.

[timgoz]

Another consideration might be if he were going to glass and epoxy the hull. I'm no designer but this would have to add to the vessels strength (& weight unfortunately).

Take care.

TGoz

[baydreamer]

Yes, the idea would be to encapsulate the hull with epoxy , inside and out.
Epoxy on the inside of the hull, and mat,cloth and epoxy on the outside. The nails would be used to hold the planks in alignment for finishing. Fastening to the permanent frames would be with flathead screws. This seems to be the generally accepted method for strip planking from what I've seen online and in books I've referenced.
Your comments are appreciated.
Regards,
Bill

[gonzo]

If you use epoxy, mat is not necessary or desirable. It will add weight, increase cost and decrease strength. Fasteners on a strip planked hulled that is fiberglassed is only to hold the shape during construction. They could be removed without adverse effects. Galvanized fasteners are adequate because with epoxy there is no water intrusion. In strip planked hull that are only painted, galvanized fasteners last twenty and more years.

[baydreamer]

If you use epoxy, mat is not necessary or desirable. It will add weight, increase cost and decrease strength. Fasteners on a strip planked hulled that is fiberglassed is only to hold the shape during construction. They could be removed without adverse effects. Galvanized fasteners are adequate because with epoxy there is no water intrusion. In strip planked hull that are only painted, galvanized fasteners last twenty and more years.
Gonzo,
Thanks for the advice. The plywood hulled Vacationer I have in mind calls for mat and cloth. I guess 6 oz. cloth would be adequate for a 3/4" thick strip planked hull?
Bill

[baydreamer]

Baydreamer: you can power nail strip planks with polymer nails made by Raptor (www.raptornails.com). The advantage is that they don't rust or rot, and they can easily be sawn or sanded.

I received a response from RaptorNails today. The polymer nails require a special nail gun which costs $345. A box of 2300 nails is $40.00. I've requested product data and specifications for both products. If others on the forum are interested I'll post what I learn.
Thanks again, all
Bill

[gonzo]

What weight cloth does the plans ask for? Do they call for mat with epoxy or they use polyester or vinylester?

[baydreamer]

The Vacationer is a plywood planked , flat bottom boat. The plans call for a layer of mat,(don't know weight), and 6 oz. cloth epoxied on. The interior of the hull will be epoxied only, using epoxy and microballoons fo fillets where needed.
In the case I choose a strip planked hull, I'll use a different design. In mind right now is the Port Louis 20 from Selway-Fisher. Since I haven't yet got study plans, I don't know the weight cloth recommended for the Port Louis.
I've read a lot about the unsuitability of polyester resin in boat construction.
I built a Nymph stitch'n glue dinghy years ago using polyester. It was good practice, but epoxy is the way we go on my last real boat. Also my first, by the way:P