View Full Version : Hull Damage - can fix?
qbert
03-04-2006, 11:54 PM
I've found a really nice boat for a good price, but it has a cracked hull. It's a decent crack with a puncture at the base of it. the owner ran into a big rock at speed and thats how it happened. is ths expensive to fix? Can it be fixed?
has anyon ever had this problem or bought a boat with this problem and had it fixed? I'm a bit concerned.
I've got a bit of advice from www.watersportforums.com but no one can give me an indication of how expensive the fix will be. I really need someone who know about fixing hulls to help.
Deering
03-05-2006, 12:18 AM
Well... the responses you got at the watersports forum all asked you what the hull was made of. Why did you figure we wouldn't need to know the same thing?
Get some more info on the hull, take some photos, and maybe some dimensions. Is the hull fiberglass? Is it cored? Was there additional damage to stringers or other structural members? Is the damaged area accessible from both sides? Did the boat sink?
You might get a general idea of difficulty to repair from this forum, but your best bet is to have a local repair shop look at it and give you an estimate. You could use their repair estimate as a negotiating tool.
safewalrus
03-05-2006, 07:45 AM
qbert
seriously what do you know about boats!?! If, as your post suggests you don't know much just remember these things can kill the unwary - death is not habit forming, you only get to do it once! Would suggest you go get some more information and training before taking the damn thing out of the box or your family could be very unhappy!
bhnautika
03-05-2006, 05:21 PM
I've found a really nice boat for a good price
How do you know this? If you do not know what the problem is and how to fix it.
kach22i
03-05-2006, 05:29 PM
How do you know this? If you do not know what the problem is and how to fix it.
Hey I got my old Porsche for a great price, $6,800.............and another $8,000 later had it running right.
Great price though.
safewalrus
03-07-2006, 01:23 PM
Got you a bargain there Kach! ;)
kach22i
03-07-2006, 02:45 PM
Got you a bargain there Kach! ;)
If I spent the $15,000 up front I would of had a $15,000 car, not a $9,500 car.
That's the moral of the story here; do as I tell you to do, not as I do.
Buy the best boat your money can buy, not the worst.
boltonprofiles
03-07-2006, 04:41 PM
Did the Porche have a crack in it, a decent crack with a puncture at the base.................:D
Wellydeckhand
03-08-2006, 01:00 AM
The car is cheap but spare part and maintaince would kill boat lover out right........... and lack of remote dealer does effect on the resale value.....
safewalrus
03-08-2006, 01:46 PM
Sarcasm Katch, Sarcasm!
kach22i
03-08-2006, 05:15 PM
Sarcasm Katch, Sarcasm!
I was hoping so, had to make it clear enough for everyone though - just to be on the safe side.
Bergalia
03-19-2006, 08:46 AM
The real question is - do we really want someone who admits to owning a Porche as a member of this forum :confused: Dammit, we'll be accepting Harley owners next....:(
kach22i
03-19-2006, 06:59 PM
The real question is - do we really want someone who admits to owning a Porche as a member of this forum :confused: Dammit, we'll be accepting Harley owners next....:(
Well, at least when the old Porsche leaks oil, it does not go into the water - not right away.:D
What do you have against air-cooled engines anyway?:P
Bergalia
03-19-2006, 11:10 PM
What do you have against air-cooled engines anyway?:P
Nothing, Kach, nothing...as long as they are attached to a decent machine: BSA, Norton, Ariel, AJS, Triumph, Scott, or Brough etc etc a real motorcycle in fact....:D
tonydignity
03-24-2006, 02:57 AM
One of the first jobs is to survey the wound in the skin ,If the boat hit a rock at speed,, look inside the hole to see if you can count the layup layers, if you can then it has delaminated and water will have got in between the layers.Grind away at a chamfered angle inside till you can see solid .
Now grind off the wax coat inside,the hull a good area back to key the new material.
I suggest epoxy resin to lay up over the hole use close cell foam to composite for strength,finally install a scantling every foot across the damage area.
To mould against use thin hardboard properly treated with Mould release,and rivited on the outside to form the original shape.This has worked for me
kach22i
03-24-2006, 10:39 AM
look inside the hole to see if you can count the layup layers, if you can then it has delaminated and water will have got in between the layers.
Now that's the kind of information everyone could use at some point, thanks.:)
westonmarine
03-26-2006, 06:30 PM
You Say Tear So Must Be Glass Relieve Tear By Grind N Cut Glass Inside 12 Inch Into Good Glass Then Outside In Laminations Overlapping Each Lam To At Least 12 Inch Into Good Solid No White Glass
westonmarine
03-26-2006, 06:39 PM
You Say Tear So Must Be Glass Relieve Tear By Grind N Cut Glass Inside 12 Inch Into Good Glass Then Outside APPLY AT LEAST 8 OZ GLASS INSIDE THEN OUTSIDE IN LAMINATIONS AT LEAST 12 INCHES INTO GOOD GLASS REMEMBER LAM IS ONLY WAY GOOD LUCK YOU WILL BE ITCHING
Tim B
03-27-2006, 05:08 PM
Hmmm,
The ultimate question is how big do you think the crack is (then go hunting for the real answer) Usually, you can get an idea of how good the layup is by shining a powerful (say 500W to 1000W) lamp through the layup. This will quite quickly show where there is any discontinuity as it will turn up as a black line. Once you know how much of it is a crack and how much must actually be cut away, then you can take a decision. The biggest problem in your repair will be getting the outside finish flush and neat.
There is a tendancy for people to suggest epoxy resin as the be-all and end-all of laminations. It is strong and light and it will stick to almost anything, but it is better to be inkeeping with the origenal layup.
The major problem is how to lay-up across a hole. It is useful to have a plate to lay up against, and this may be on the inside or outside depending on accessibility. For tight curves (and chines) Use thick cardboard on the inside pulled against the hull with string. For most other geometries it is easier to attach a plate to the outside. The plate can be made of whatever is convenient, but it must be able to un-stick from the resin. and, if it is on the outside it must be very, very smooth.
Good tools to use:
Drill and wire brush (variety of)
Old Chisel, hammer etc.
screwdriver
mini vacuum cleaner
eyes/mouth protection
damn big lamp
possibly Camera with exposure time
paint brushes
acetone (for cleaning)
pots to mix resin in
Hacksaw (perhaps) + Hacksaw blade (definitely)
Hope this helps, Feel free to e-mail me if you need more details,
Tim B.
View Full Version : Hull Damage - can fix?