sunk and ground up from stem to stern

Discussion in 'All Things Boats & Boating' started by cal, Dec 4, 2006.

  1. longliner45
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    longliner45 Senior Member

    I was thinking more along the lines of removeing all the glass hull and using marine ply but you may have to put ribs in or some form of support ,,and then again you may alreaddy have some structure in place,,I will remind you I am not a designer,,,just taking forever to build my own boat ,,,good luck,longliner
     
  2. Tim B
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    Tim B Senior Member

    You could use plywood to re-inforce the GRP repairs, but you'd end up with hard-spots and all sorts of nasty things. Generally thick cardboard is all that's needed to back up the layup while you build it up. Finishing it would be difficult, though and there is very extensive damage. I wouldn't like to try to repair it.

    When I suggested stripping and re-building it, I was thinking you could do it all from plywood, and completely re-build the hull, then re-install the bits. This also gives you the oppertunity to change the hull, interior, or helm if there is anything you don't like about it.

    Cheers,

    Tim B.
     
  3. cal
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    cal Junior Member

    thanks tim and longliner. i guess this is a beginners question,,,are hard spots to be avoided because you need the hull to give and take and hard means it will be brittle and crack?
     
  4. Tim B
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    Tim B Senior Member

    yes, that's exactly right

    Tim B.
     
  5. longliner45
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    longliner45 Senior Member

    it will sure take alott to crack plywood...longliner
     
  6. Tim B
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    Tim B Senior Member

    The cracks start in the GRP at the end of the plywood. If the ply is thin enough, you can use filler and a few layers of thin GRP over the ply.It's far better to use cardboard to lay up against, as that adds very little strength, and therefore does not produce any particular stress concentrations. The card you get on the back of pads of paper is great for that. For a repair this size, though, you might find you need more strength than a secondary bonded laminate of the same thickness will give you. a bit of ply behind the repair might be well worth the expense.

    Cheers,

    Tim B.
     
  7. cal
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    cal Junior Member

    i don't have the wherewithal or the experience to build another hull so i will search for a similar model with hopefully everything wrong with it except the mechanics and buy it then switch it out.

    since i have nothing to lose on this boat boat's hull, do you think my chances would be fair to start the repair myself? what would I do, cut out the bad parts and then build a cardboard mold and start building up the fiberglass in a wide feather? if you could guide a novice such as me with advice I would be vary appreciative. I just want to make it float again. it might not rent again, but it could free up another boat if i can get it going even if it looks like frankentstein when i'm done.
     
  8. Martin B
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    Martin B Junior Member

    Because these hulls are so thin they are very difficult to repair when they are badly damaged. If you want to try to fix it yourself your going to have to gain access from the inside so you can put on plenty of fiberglass to strenthen the area. I think you would need experience to make these repairs outside and have them hold up long term.


    www.bowkersfiberglass.com
     
  9. cal
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    cal Junior Member

    ok thank you martin. i looked at the boat and access from the inside is pretty tough. would it be ok to cut some of the flooring out (it goes back under carpet when i'm done) or maybe underneath the control console? i just need enough room to sand the inside bottom and be able to lay some fiberglass, roght? thanks.
     
  10. Martin B
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    Martin B Junior Member

    Yes I have cut the floor out of inner liners lots of times. It's a lot easier if you can cut it out in one piece so take some time to make certain you are cutting the right area. Sometimes you can actually add a ski locker in the area that you cut out depending on how the boat was built. Good luck and make sure to glass at least 6" all the way around the damage.



    www.bowkersfiberglass.com
     
  11. Tim B
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    Tim B Senior Member

    A wire brush on a drill is invaluable for fibreglass. It stops the GRP taking the grit off your sandpaper every 30 seconds. When you do it, make sure that all the GRP you're going to lay up on is all really clean.

    Good Luck,

    Tim B.
     
  12. cal
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    cal Junior Member

    thanks you guys. it's on the list of repairs right after a jet pump and a motor switch. not impossible but i do see roughly how much work it will be and it gives me hope that thing will float again. thank you for the help and i will dig this thread out when i get that thing in the shop. thank you again.
     
  13. Dan W
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    Dan W New Member

    Yours won't float, mine won't run

    Just learned the engine in my 93 searayder sportjet 90 needs a new crank. Very expensive rebuild - more than the boat is worth it would appear. Seems a shame to throw away such a nice hull. Maybe we should talk.
     

  14. cal
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    cal Junior Member

    i just bought one in florida for 400. i will switch it out soon. thank you though. i am so glad i didnt have to try and repair that hull.
     
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