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#1
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| Hello World, newb intro and questions. Howdy yall, I spent a good bit of my time growing up on or around boats in North Florida. Ive been away from the water for far to long and have decided that the best way to get myself back on the water (and back around the folks mamma always called "boat people") is to build my own small sailboat. I would like to start with simple project. Although Ive been around alot of vessels and boatyards, I was to young or distracted to pay attention to the real work going on. I 've scraped and painted and polished with the best but my fiberglass experience doesn't go beyond surfboard repair. And my carpentry is limited to around the house type stuff. Hopefully though some of my land surveying skills will help...as far as reading plans, problem solving, drafting and calculations. ( not sure if my machete skills will apply? you never know!) I would appreciate any suggestions about first builds. I'm intrigued by the SF Pelican but I was thinking my first boat should be a stitch and glue. Are other plywood construction methods also beginner friendly? And what a nice surprise, Gov. Tyree's nickname was still available. ***expect pithy tagline here*** |
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#2
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| Hello and welcome. I'm not a sailor man but am a wood boatbuilder. I post this site for your general information as these folks have started thousands into to the world of building your own boat. Look over all the sail designs and read the descriptions and you will have taken a large educational step into the crazy world of owner boat builders. It is fun and can be shared by the whole family. All of these sail boats have been designed by a Naval Architect. Glen L. Witt. Enjoy the experience and again, WELCOME. Best, Stan https://www.boatdesigns.com/departments.asp?dept=12 |
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#3
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| Be aware that s+g is not easier than strip planking (for example), although many people and internet sites are calling for the opposite! It just looks to be easy. Regards Richard |
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#4
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| skink Do you just want to "build a boat" and see what happens..or do you want to "design a boat" and then build it? The two are different functions with differing goals, both professionally and personally. |
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#5
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| interesting Are there other advantages to S&G besides ease of building. I'm thinking about availability of tools and materials...space..cost of plans. I really appreciate the insight. I had always assumed S&G was the default beginner method. See I learned something already Is this a debate among enthusiast ? I'm no boat builder..but I know enough to try and avoid (as much as possible) forum flame wars. Thanks again. looks like my reading list just got longer. |
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#6
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| Ad Hoc, I would like to build a boat first. I anticipate really enjoying the process and would probably want to design something in the future. But a simple build and boat is my first priority. Some of my interest in design stems from just starting to work in CAD and HD scanning for land surveying. I will probably be seeking more formal CAD training soon. It might be possible to tailor some of my course work so that I can utilize it in marine design as well as traditional (and non traditional) land survey applications. |
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#7
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| You can build a whole boat with a good (Bosch ) jig saw. S&G is not faster for the new boat builder--all methods take real time the 1st time. Go with the boat you like. |
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#8
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| Skink If your aim/priority is to build a boat...best buy some quality plans which are tailored or more suited to your prefered method of build. Then just enjoy... |
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#9
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| I AGREE 100% with Ad Hoc. Build what you want. Don't make a practice run. Best, Stan |
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#10
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| No, It's not a debate among those familiar with all the methods. Designers for several decades have suggested strip planking is the easiest for a novice to get their head around, with traditional plywood over frame being equally as easy. Taped seam (stitch and glue, tack and tape, etc.) methods rely on a high "goo factor" (my term for lots of epoxy work) to be successful. In fact, if not for epoxy, then these taped seam methods wouldn't exist. Along these lines I've been developing a few simple designs that are a cross between taped seam and more traditional methods. There's much less goo factor, most just require an exterior sheathing (fabric set in epoxy), but other wise rely or much more conventional, very simple wood work and traditional single part glues. What intimates most back yard builders most, is the goo factor and the odd woodworking (weird angles, curves, rabbits, fitting planks, etc.) skills. Cutting a rolling bevel (continuously changing angle) can be daunting for a novice, let alone bending a plank into position. The latest design I've created to help in this regard is a 24' harbor launch. It's a stately flat bottom, displacement cruiser, requiring modest outboard power. The flare in the top sides is the same angle from bow to stern, which means the chine log can be cut on a table saw or with a circular saw in a pinch. Just set the angle (7 degrees in this case) and rip off a couple of chine logs. These are glued in place on the plywood bottom with a PVA or PU adhesive. The sides of the boat are glued (same stuff) to these and held with stainless steel bugle head screws (they look like drywall screws, but are stainless). A longitudinal stringer is attached about half way up the sides, again cut and attached the same way. The sheer clamp and rub rail follow similarly. A few partitions and bulkheads, plus the cockpit and cabin furniture make up the rest of the structure. Epoxy isn't used (though it could be if desired) inside the boat. The exterior is sheathed with light weight cloth (set in epoxy), but this is more for abrasion resistance and water proofing. The net result is a design that can be built very easily, with basic tools and skills, using little fancy goo and reinforcements. No special tools, no steam bending anything, just monkey carpentry and the ability to follow plans. Is it as strong as a similar taped seam boat? Well it's a bit like asking if you'll be more dead, by falling from a 20 story rather then a 10 story building. This new method I'm working on is more then strong enough, for the tasks asked of the structure. It could be done lighter and stronger with epoxy, but for the most part, the novice builder would be hard pressed to do better, regardless of technique. |
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#11
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| By Par's definition my build must be S&G, not as much fun as S&M ![]() ![]() , but seems quick once started then SLOOOOWS down for the fit-out etc., - all the fiddly bits![]() ![]() ![]() - - - Have a look at the links in my "signature"....Pick your own, but remember, your cruising region is a big influence - above your personal preference of style.... Write down the region you wish to cruise in, duration of "independence", are you a collector/hoarder or discard if not used in 6 months (the latter is for cats and tri's and extreme hoarders need a 'huge bathtub' of a mono).... Have fun...
__________________ Try to be helpful... Remember that there are at least two sides for every story... |
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#12
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| I'm fairly sure your Oram design is a composite build, though taped seams may be incorporated into the build. It's not uncommon to see multiple methods in a single design. Multi hull sailors are folks with inner ear issues and must remain flat footed underway or die. Actually in their defense, it's usually the wife's that force this issue, which suggest who's the boss in their families. ![]() |
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#13
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| Par, hehehe - just application of common sense - why build a boat that needs some heavy mass hanging below just to keep from falling over, which also guarantees it sinks if the keel does not fall off first... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() sailed in both and know my druthers for the region in which I wish to sail....Skink, check this out http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/ope...ess-24009.html just 10 pages, but a beautiful boat sure to give lots of pleasure and pride in workmanship.... from BHOFM
__________________ Try to be helpful... Remember that there are at least two sides for every story... |
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#14
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| Just to throw a monkey wrench in the mix---- Why not rebuild a project boat? Speaking from experience, because I have done both,(built 3 boats from the ground up and I am on my 2nd re-build) I would recommend that you start with a sound hull and refurbish the first boat. It will be a very valuable learning lesson, and you will not be spending a year to 18 months building the hull. Prices are great now and you can buy a project boat for less then it will coast to build a hull, or sometimes for free.
__________________ Over the years I have spent nearly all of my money on boats, beer, and women. The rest of it I just wasted. |
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#15
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| right on! Thanks for all the great ideas and advice. Since my first post I have become increasingly obsessed with the prospect of building my own boats. Most experienced boat builders/designers are probably used to laying down to go to sleep at night , only to have diagrams and ideas about boats shuttle constantly through thier mind. I am not quite that used to it. The wealth of knowledge online and support like this forum conspires to enchant me. I find myself thinking of designing and sailing my own boats ALL Day LONG. someone should have warned me. I'm sure the obsession will temper itself a bit when get into the nuts and bolts and make a few disasterous mistakes...but Im full of noob enthusiasm right now. I appreciate the encouragement to explore all the method available to amateurs. After reading up on them I am less intimidated. Good suggestion about renovating an older boat! I think I will start simple, a small plywood dory or sharpie with polytarp sails. Then? who knows Last edited by Skink : 05-08-2009 at 12:35 PM. Reason: added content |
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