Handy Personal Link Thread

Outboard Prop Tuning

An interesting link here on setting up a prop on a boat.

"The Secrets of Boat Setup"

http://www.kencook.net/Setupart.html

 

Mast Calculation

Calculating rig and mast sizes

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailboats/rig-mast-dimensioning-online-43296.html

 

Finishing Epoxy Hull

Good advice at

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/materials/priming-painting-epoxy-41315.html

 

Composite Design Publications

Lots of technical resources at

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-design/composite-design-calculations-44186.html

 

Useful Resin/Catalyst reference tables

at

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...ding/check-see-if-ok-just-starters-44315.html

 

Scarf Joint Diagrams and discussion

Pars handy Scarfing Jig with a powersaw

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/wooden-boat-building-restoration/scarf-joint-44736-3.html

 

Overhead Epoxying Tips - with neat glove trick

Some good advice on how to lay FG overhead with the least amount of pain

including -

Wear multiple layers of gloves, so you can pull the top ones off when they get too gooey, and not have to wrestle new ones onto your sweaty/sticky fingers.

PS I keep a canister of talcum powder handy for fast and easy glove-ups.

You cant have too baggy a glove, as sometimes its easier to use your fingers tips to manipulate goo.

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...ing/overhead-epoxy-work-45781.html#post604646

 

Late night Peel Ply reading


The Effect of Peel-Ply Surface Preparation Variables on Bond Quality

Federal Aviation Administration

http://www.tc.faa.gov/its/worldpac/techrpt/ar06-28.pdf

 

Epoxy users Health Protection

I liked that one Mike.

I thought this thread on health protection should be a priority too

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...t-building/epoxy-allergies-options-45637.html

 

Stability for my Simple Mind

center of buoyancy,
or CB) and the center of all weight (vertical center of gravity, or VCG).

a maximum righting moment = (GZ)

GM is the measurement (distance )
between the VCG and the Metacenter
(M—the point at which a vertical line
taken from the heeled CB crosses the
vessel’s centreline)

Having said that, for a mono-hull yacht that is expected to do extended coastal cruising,
open ocean cruising, or any vessel that is expected to be caught out in really bad weather you
should look for the following;
•
a minimum range of stability to 90° of heel and over 120° preferred
•
a maximum righting moment (GZ) that occurs after 30° and preferably after 50°
•
and a GM of at least 2 feet and preferably between 3 feet and 5 feet
GM is the most valuable number to consider, as it tells you the initial sta-
bility; the stability that you will notice day to day. GM is actually the measurement between the VCG and the Metacenter (M—the point at which a vertical line taken from the heeled CB crosses the vessel’s centreline) as shown in this diagram.

Low GM means the boat may be a bit tender to walk around on and heel a
few degrees under wind pressure. How-ever, there may be a good overall range of stability, which you can check by looking at the Critical Angle or Ultimate Stability.
If it has a higher GM then more than likely there will be sufficient initial stability, and possibly too much, however Ultimate Stability may be low. The boat will have a quick jerky motion in a seaway but be very stable at the dock.



http://www.trekkeryachts.com/pdf/StabilityBray.pdf

 

Hull Protection options

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-building/keel-abrasive-protection-hdpe-46467-2.html

I like the manufactured epoxy strips with hardeners added.

 

The PDF link in that thread is broken, can anyone re-post it?

http://www.diabgroup.com/europe/lite...re_bedding.pdf

 

Rhino design concepts

I will need to find my way back to this

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/design-software/rhino-5-material-thickness-47560.html


and "smooth mesh' demo - excellent

 

Painting Techniques - problem paint job

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...t-building/two-part-paint-issues-47639-2.html


"for a roll and tip technique to work, the tip off brush should be fairly dry and preferably foam. Naturally, you need to work the "wet edge", so if you can't maintain a wet edge, it's too hot. Hold the tip off brush nearly vertical and a very light tough is all you need. You're not trying to move paint, just knock down the roller stipple. If the brush loads up, wipe it off. I paint in hot conditions all the time and sometimes the best patch I can maintain a wet edge with is only a 12" square. "

 

Stainless Steel Types

There are several good discussions on stainless

I will modify this as i re-find them - in the meantime

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/ma...t-boomkin-need-metalurgical-advice-47475.html